Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*cough* use the search button *cough*

But i'll give advice anyway...

Finance.. Good Luck, 99% of companies wont provide a secured loan against a grey import vehicle. You have to go unsecured (and thus, cant borrow as much)

Insurance, good luck. depending on your age (ie, if your over 21) you have a much better chance at getting insurance that 17-20yo;s.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23508-finance-insurance/#findComment-503396
Share on other sites

It all depends how old you are. Im 20 and i've just been through the same thing.

RAC gave me a great loan with great repayments etc. Easy to deal with and in THEORY had it all worked out in under 2 days.

The worst part was like Strich9ine said. They hate grey imports (silvia's, skylines, 180sx etc), which i didnt find out untill the last minute (which is where i had big problems). Unless you have a 20% deposit they wont hand over a cent.

If your after a 200sx, wrx, falcon, commy etc they'll have no problems whatsoever. Find a car, do the basic things and they'll write you a cheque.

Insurance will kill you, and if your around 18-21 expect around 3-$4000 from a company like Famous or Just Cars etc.

One thing is NEVER go through dealer finance. It can look good on paper, but it can cost you so much more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23508-finance-insurance/#findComment-503672
Share on other sites

Howdy

Phat you may want to try a broker, I had a bit of trouble getting finance for my R33 Skyline . At the time i was only in a part time job. My main credit union wouldnt do a car loan as i was only in the job for a few months , RAC wouldnt do a car loan A: because the car was an import B: becuase the car was older than 7+ years

That is probably going to be the real killer not the actual 'getting finance for a grey import' its the cars age. Most will not have a problem financing relatively new cars such as R34 because they check up on the average value of the car in australia.

In desperation looking for finance i rang a few main stream banks and spoke to them about it , a guy from ESANDA finance (which is a partner of ANZ) advised me that most will not finance or even want to becuase they want to appear to be helping the australia job market (which is noble but stupid) . RAC is mainly the same or any type of automotive organisation

now im sure you want to stop hearing about the negative stuff ill tell you some positives. I have my skyline now but It depends on how you want to get there

Dealer finance (easy appears good but interest rates can be 12%+ upto 18%!!!!) which is what i was quoted

think of it like this

20000K Loan through a dealer

at 18% interest

Repayments over 5 years (without 18%Interest) = 4000

Repayments over 5 years (with 18% Interest) = 4720

= 23600 and thats just the interest added on

Admin fees +50$ a month

Stamp duty 3-7% depanding on what the dealer sets usually its 5%

Now the thing with dealer finance is that there is a list of terms and conditions a mile long , such as if you want to pay it off just say a bit more every tax year e.g 1000 extra every year to get the payments down, well guess what most of the time you cant

dealer finance is evil and should be destroyed by the son of rajab, some people can get better deals alls im saying is beware and read the fine print, if you were like me your eager and want a car and money now !!! but think what you sign tommorow will be with you for 5 years (much like a girlfriend)

in my opinion with all these factors i believe you should get yourself an EA falcon (jokes!!) get a personal loan

the interest rate varies from 9-11.5 percent less fees and if you want to repay it back earlier (WELL GO FOR IT TIGER!!)

the type of loan would more than likely be an unsecured (untiered) loan as the car is more than 7 yrs old and cannot be used for security

unsecured personal loan may cost a little bit more in interest such as a 1% difference which can total 100$ a year difference.

they are worth it becuase the security of the loan is there, its your car! not the dealers if you want to drift it into a pole then its your problem not the banks, the banks dont give a flying .... if you crash it as long as you make the repayments

if your lucky to get a secured personal loan also keep in mind if using the car as security then they may request you have insurance (which im sure you would get anyway)

I rang a few companies (major banks as more reliable) and credit unions. and out of all of them the NATIONAL was willing to give me a loan , not based on whether i had been in my job for a certain amount of time or what i wanted it for (tell them you want a dick englargment ) they dont care as long as you can pay and your income can meet your repayments

if you live at home with mum and dad even better, its not hard just perservere the world can seem against u at time ( as mat and me soon found out) but there is always someone willing to take your money from you :)

hope this has helped I work for a bank so if you need any more help or you want to ask me some questions about which companies i have tried then email me or leave me a post) i researched getting a skyline/insuring and getting finance for about 6 months

Insurance , well depends on what you really need

when i first got my r33 i insured it for 3rd party fire and theft through suncorp metway for $350 a year

comprehensive is a bit harder, im 20 so i tried a few

quoted young&Cool stock r33 parked in a company car park(if you drive to work) full compro = 2600(mods effect premium a ship load e.g i askedf if i had mags how much extra $400 on premium a year , exhaust 300$+++ it all ads up and dont even put down you park in a public car park premium ended up to be around 5000

Famous classic car insure r33 all legal mods (doesnt effect premium) for me 2600$ a year

they will match other quotes aswell so if you can get another quote they will match it which is good of them so email me and i can give you some details on where to get some quotes from

im sure you could get them down even more they are a good bunch to deal with , im just a little apprehensive about if iever have to make a claim through them as they are underwritten by an offshore provider that does not conform to australias credit control /insurance act/ so as much as famous are a good company they are licenced etc.. if their underwriter goes down the toilet then well thats stiff bickies to you !! :D but i think its worth the risk

well just have to cross that bridge ( i hope not) if we ever come to it

catcha

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23508-finance-insurance/#findComment-504660
Share on other sites

Phat: Mark has some good points. OMG i just realised who he is :)

RAC can suck, but for an aussie car (and the age thing was never a problem) i would go for it. I got RAC insurance on my car for 2K (which is good because i dont exactly have a wonderful record and no NCB).

I dealt with Famous (actually went and saw / spoke with them etc) and to be honest, things dont make sense their. To many differences etc. It was going to cost me 3600 a year on the same car as Mark, with a similiar record, living in the same area etc.

They DIDNT beat the best quotes (their own) with me......

Phat, if your serious and having problems. PM Mark. He'll be able to point you in the best directions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23508-finance-insurance/#findComment-504792
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...