Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday went to Turbotune in Adelaide to fix a spluttering problem my car has had for a while. Thought it could be either a fuel pump problem or a coilpack. After an hour and some tests, ended up being a faulty coil pack. So happy to get that fixed coz it was driving me crazy. Then we dynoed it and I was shocked to see 201.2rwkw. Only mods are dump/front pipe, hks cat back, fmic, no boost controller but there was a boost increase to around 11.5psi. I was wondering if anybody made similar sort of power with or without boost controller. Will put picture of dyno when I get a chance to scan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

to me that dyno is reading a wee bit too high

i had my car dynoed at Willall Racing and they use a mainline dyno

with a front mount, boost increase to 9psi, full zorst, splitfire coilpacks, pod....my car made 188.7 rwkw on a reasonably warm day

so from the mods that you are saying you have i would expect the same sort of power that my car has pulled out

plus no boost controller and ur hitting 11.5psi....umm have you had that reading out off a boost gague or from the stock gauge.

Edited by Krishy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123368
Share on other sites

damo had 2 dyno results from 2 different places.....

autosalon dyno if i remember correctly he made 161 something rwkw

and at southern hi tech dyno he made 184.2rwkw

that alone tells you that every dyno is different

Edited by Krishy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123473
Share on other sites

Only mods are dump/front pipe, hks cat back, fmic, no boost controller but there was a boost increase to around 11.5psi. I was wondering if anybody made similar sort of power with or without boost controller. Will put picture of dyno when I get a chance to scan.

You WOULD have about 200rwkw if there was an aftermarket computer or your ecu has been remapped........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123484
Share on other sites

my 33 made 192kw with just a pod and turbo back three inch exhaust. i fitted the FMIC and it automatically pushed the boost up. final result is 205.4kw on 10psi :blink: ... i'm stoked:) oh and im running stock ECU and no boost controller

Edited by IZZMO 33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123529
Share on other sites

Southern Hi Tech: 182.4rwkw

Autosalon: 165rwkw

I got the lighter wheels back on and have a dyno day at graham west next month. im very interested to see what it pulls now, although i may have a few goodies on by then so the comparison wont be that accurate.

At autosalon in 4th it was hitting speed cut on the ctock ecu but hadn't maxed the revs yet, but at southern hi teech it reached max revs, so i guess each dyno is calibrated differently.

Edited by Damo_R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123552
Share on other sites

my 33 made 192kw with just a pod and turbo back three inch exhaust. i fitted the FMIC and it automatically pushed the boost up. final result is 205.4kw on 10psi :blink: ... i'm stoked:) oh and im running stock ECU and no boost controller

same goes here, i achieved quite a boost increase after installing FMIC. Around 12psi. no aftermarket boost controller, and what appears to be the standard ECU. Same other mods that IZZMO mentioned - pod, turbo back exhaust.

She's running pretty nice.

Next thing i'll be adding is better coil packs - my oem ones are pretty fried.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123577
Share on other sites

Mainlines do read lower due to their more accurate correction factors but this is widely know, so you can compare DD figures to DD amd mainline to mainline but can't really compare them against eaach other.

I fitted the exhaust and cooler to this car, there was also some cat "modifications" so the boost increase is due to the increase in the exhaust flow.

The boost reading is off the MAP sensor on the exhaust.

I would say that the figure is pretty accutre due to how i only just pulled away in my lighter 180 which was running about 205kw(14.5psi) at the time when we had a run on the freeway on the way to Mallala (kept it under 110 of course).

As cubes and Jeff said prehaps it's just a freek.

Edited by D_Stirls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123645
Share on other sites

Where there is a boost jump it should only jump to around 9 or 10psi. Most 33's do that with those mods, but I think there are some that just might do crazy things and jump to 11 or 12 psi like mine and I dont know why, maybe just lucky. Plus turbo tune had just finished having they're dyno serviced on monday, so dont think the dyno is a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123646
Share on other sites

damo had 2 dyno results from 2 different places.....

autosalon dyno if i remember correctly he made 161 something rwkw

and at southern hi tech dyno he made 184.2rwkw

that alone tells you that every dyno is different

auto salon was dead on actually. i had just got my car dyno tuned at boost worx a week prior and it made 2kws more than it had been tuned for.

anywho.. i dont find it hard to believe 200. i mean 11.5 is lot of boost for a rb25.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235496-dynoed-my-r33/#findComment-4123650
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...