Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Drop, Stock intercooler or stock Turbo?


Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

Seems a few of use are under the debate and testing, that we are experiencing boost drop at full throttle. My example was on my recent dyno tune, that i peeked in mid range in the high 11's and low 12's but as revs increased my boost dropped to a point of 10psi at max revs.

So the question is, the guys with FMIC , EBC, or different turbos are you experiensing the same?

Is it the stock intercooler having inadequate flow?

Or the stock turbo ineffeciencies?

Or maybe the Boost controller?

My stock turbo would give me 12.5psi till about 4500rpm where it dropped suddenly off to 9.5psi. I have the blitz sbc boost controller and we put it down to that or the wastegate actuator. With the TD06 on now boost holds nice and flat with maybe a 0.5psi drop in the high end so it was the wastegate actuator spring. HKS make a wastegate actuator with a stronger spring, but even still at around 12-13psi the stock turbo is really reaching the end of its efficiency range so its gonna start dropping a bit of boost at the top end. I've seen a car with a bleed valve and a powerfc make around 270ish HP @ treads with the stock intercooler, though I didnt see his boost graph.

I have a front mount with a turbosmart bleed valve and standard turbo. My boost drops from about 12psi to 10 psi between 6500rpm - 7000rpm.

Im pretty sure in my case its either the wastegate or bleed valve because everything is relatively efficient ie, new dump pipe/exhaust, HKS filter, PFC.

Hope that helps,

its normal ,

the turbo is not big enough to hold boost at high revs .

the higher the rpm the more air it has to pump thats way u get a drop in boost , if u can hold max boost at 6000 u r doing well .

Any tried the 1 bar HKS wastegate actuator to fix this problem? Has it helped?

Standard turbo dropping from 16 psi back to 13 psi.

Have FMIC and PFC so I don't think it's the I/C

Also trying to work out if it's leaky BOV, Boost controller (manual now) or wastegate actuator.

Originally posted by wrxhoon

its normal ,

the turbo is not big enough to hold boost at high revs .  

the higher the rpm the more air it has to pump thats way u get a drop in boost , if u can hold max boost at 6000 u r doing well .

Can you explain why then, that my car held 0.85 bar (12.5lbs) all the way to 7200rpm, in fourth gear?

the wastegate acutator is the issue. It isn't the best quality unit in the world.

The HKS actuator will help, isn't really worth it on the stock turbo though. Dropping boost probably saves the factory one from going bang sometimes.

I know when i last ran mine with EBC with stock turbo and intercooler it shot straight to 10psi at about 2600rpm and held flat tapering off maybe 0.5psi all the way til 7 grand.

Now i got front mount....damn i love that thing. boost is super flat.

Originally posted by rob77

. I've seen a car with a bleed valve and a powerfc make around 270ish HP @ treads with the stock intercooler, though I didnt see his boost graph.

That may of been mine. Even if not i still qualify as stock turbo cooler bleed valve and Power FC

here is a graph before the PFC was fine tuned

120603.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...