Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, i just installed a new fmic with the piping kit and now, i wonder where to fit my boost control valve vacuum hose.

The kit had a "T" fitting but no instruction that tell where to install it. So i figured out the only place was on the blow off valve. I wasn't sure about this but it seem to run very well. Still, is it safe and is it the right place to fit the vacuum hose?

See my boost controller valve to the right? the pink hose go to the blow off valve to the left.

n694150400_4145705_8193.jpg

And that's how i connected it.

n694150400_4145708_8803.jpg

So.. is it ok or i should weld a nozzle on the piping to keep it like the oem one?

Thanks!

I'll pass a few opinions on this topic which I'm sure will differ with what a lot of others think/do but hey thats life - IMO .

My findings are that waste gate actuators (and solenoids) don't like getting their pressure signal from down stream of the inlet manifolds throttle/s . I had my old FJ20 like that for a while with an integral wastegate turbo (GT2860RS) and you get all sorts of silly noises and waste gate flutter from a sudden sharp pressure drop when the throttle is shut quickly .

I would rather see the pressure signal line connect to the system upstream of the throttles and I'm pretty sure Nissan do this anyway in std form .

When you do it this way all the waste gate diaphragm see's (via the solenoid valve) is roughly atmospheric pressure (assumes little or no pressure drop through your air filter) and up to the maximum pressure the compressor developes at wherever you tap into the system .

You need to be wary of restrictions downstream of the compressor side of your turbo because if they are significant the pressure can be a fair bit higher at the turbo than it is in the inlet manifold . Corky reckons and I agree that finding a location close to the compressor housings outlet (if not in the side of it) is probably best overall .

If you really wanted them you can create boost spikes by tapping in further away downstream of the compressor housing , it does this because of the time lag involved in pressurising the point further away . The down side is that the temperature rises faster at the compressor and the pressure rises faster in the turbine housing - its because the gate stays shut possibly longer because the waste gate is trying to regulate turbine/compressor speed based on pressure down stream - not at the turbocharger .

IMO close to the comp housing , A .

BTW you could get unusual things going on with the recirc valve if you must tap in where you have , seperate lines always ensure manifold pressure at what ever gadget thats connected to the manifold .

Again I wouldn't do it this way but possibly tap into some appropriate part of the IAC housing ?

I always run the most OEM style hose I can find with factory type clamps - stealth is good - defects are bad .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...