Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ryan, can you adjust camber on the front coils on all models? How is this done? I bought my car with the coils and received no instruction from the guy i bought it from.

Hi, Camber on skylines is done via the upper controll arm not the coilover camber top like like silvia/mazda/subaru etc. I'am using whiteline bushes in my skyline at the moment but we can also order in adjustable section/silk road/cusco arms for you.

Ryan

Looking to buy a new set of coil overs for my 32 gtst coz my rear ones have shite themselves.

What's everyone's opinion on brands????

i have ISC's, they work great! but had the biggest f**k around with customer service getting them, it was horrible. Had to exchange the rear coilovers twice to get the correct ones.

Bilstein approx $2500 is the cheapest I've seen..........and that's only shocks & springs, you have to use the top hats and rubbers from your stock coilovers.

?? i paid under $1500 for mine, i have nfi where ur getting ur figures from.

for the street maybe 4.5kg/3.5kg, for track around the 6/4kg mark.

erm aren't R33's standard springs about the 4kg up front not sure of rear prolly 3kg and i know your talking R32 but hey doesnt matter what model you would use similar rates across the board

also Pete got proper Bilstein coil overs not a spring and shocker combo

im thinking of changing my springs from 12fr 10rr to 8fr and 7rr

Lawson - i dunno why you found Ryan's service to be sub par but i found it impeccable, unless you didn't deal with Ryan ?? or you didn't give him all the information he needed to sort you out efficiently

steve, from what i saw from the pics of the isc coilovers, i think that they were trying to make universal style ones and the rear shock shafts were alot longer then they needed to be making it not be able to lower much past stock hight as 32's needed to have the smaller shocks.

although, i had a small problem with a product from them and when i told him he was happy to exchange the product and even brought it himself to the workshop. i was happy with the customer service!

erm aren't R33's standard springs about the 4kg up front not sure of rear prolly 3kg and i know your talking R32 but hey doesnt matter what model you would use similar rates across the board

im thinking of changing my springs from 12fr 10rr to 8fr and 7rr

Steve, you could even go softer since your car is 90% street use.

Probably even 6 or 7 Front & 5 or 6 Rear...............wouldn't go any softer just in case you wanted to do track work.

Been speaking alot to SK, his son Matt and Poly Air Springs in NSW lately.......they are all experts when it comes to spring rates and all agree with the above info as long as you stiffen up the sway bars.

Japs, according to Matt, tend to favour the very hard coilover and don't worry about their sway bars.

He says it may have something to do with their very narrow carports, garages & driveways, lol

not for a GTR bud.........try double that

I spoke to Gary & his son Matt twice this week already and that price I quoted is probably on the light side

R32GTST_Whiteline_Package.jpg

R32GTR_Whiteline_Package.jpg

once again, we are talking about an R32 GTS-t. not 100% how u talking about ur R34 GTR is relevant here.

erm aren't R33's standard springs about the 4kg up front not sure of rear prolly 3kg and i know your talking R32 but hey doesnt matter what model you would use similar rates across the board

also Pete got proper Bilstein coil overs not a spring and shocker combo

im thinking of changing my springs from 12fr 10rr to 8fr and 7rr

Lawson - i dunno why you found Ryan's service to be sub par but i found it impeccable, unless you didn't deal with Ryan ?? or you didn't give him all the information he needed to sort you out efficiently

pretty sure the stock springs are around 3kg all round, the whiteline group buy uses springs which are around 3.5kg all round for the street. the main issue with stock suspension is in the dampers, not so much the springs. there is no real need to go very high rates on the street, with decent sway bars u will have more than enough roll control for street conditions. going high rates will only mean a rougher ride and reduced traction.

the spring/shocker combo u refer to are no less coilovers than any other suspension u can buy, the only difference between them and what people generally refer to as coilovers are they have thread adjustable lower seats rather than using circlips. if u dont plan on changing the ride height more than once every few months then u will never even know the difference.

btw i run the bilstein/eibach combo with the "coilover conversion kit", 6/4kg, that ended up costing around $2200ish. i bought these to suit the track, i wouldnt have bothered with them if my car didnt see a lot of track work.

ah cool :)

yeah Pete want to do a little track work but i could put the 12/10kg back in yeah??

so i guess a 6/5kg would be ideal with stiffer sway bars and if i went on track with the 12/10kg then soften up the sway bar a little ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...