Jump to content
SAU Community

Fumes From Closed Petrol Cap

da spike

By da spike,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

da spike Collaborator

da spike

Posted
Posted

As the title says i have fumes coming from my closed petrol cap. I found that the nozzle that the cap screws into in the tank is loose and i pulled it out by pulling on it lightly. What can i use (that is safe to use in a petrol tank) to seal it back in place? Can i use urethane?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236248-fumes-from-closed-petrol-cap/
Share on other sites
nada Contributor

nada

Posted
Posted

i had the same problem, when ur car gets complianced they have to change the socket to an unleaded. They usually just apply glue and stick it in. Usually after time itll wear out causing fumes to come out and not hearing that whooosh sound when u open your cap.

I used "silkaflex" its around $17 but i got it for $12 :P at supercheap autos.

Hope that helps mate :(

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
Cool thanks mate, yea it looks like they used some shitty glue to stick it in.

I had the same issue... started to leak and then one day broke off.

I used some stuff called Knead-It... it's kinda like a plasticine consistency until it goes hard... then it goes hard as a rock. I'd be worried with silicone based adhesives (i.e. sicaflex) as the petrol might dissolve it over time...

http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-KneadIt-Steel/default.aspx

You can get it at Bunnings or whatever... lol one of the suggested uses on their website is "Repairing a hole in a fuel tank".

Fantastic stuff.

You have to use it to believe how strong/hard it sets!

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I've got the same problem and it's been bugging me for years....

Just a quick question, besides the fuel smell is there anything bad that can happen with the tank not pressurising?

Thanks,

Peter

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
Hey,

I've got the same problem and it's been bugging me for years....

Just a quick question, besides the fuel smell is there anything bad that can happen with the tank not pressurising?

Thanks,

Peter

About a week before I broke the nozzle off, i filled up completely. When I got home I got out and saw a big red stain down the side of my car! The petrol had leaked out under some 'spirited' cornering :dry: I saw what had happened and washed the petrol off, but didn't have time to do anything about it. The next week, I only put in half a tank just to be careful, and as I was screwing the fuel cap back on, the whole nozzle came off in my hands!

da spike Collaborator

da spike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
About a week before I broke the nozzle off, i filled up completely. When I got home I got out and saw a big red stain down the side of my car! The petrol had leaked out under some 'spirited' cornering :dry: I saw what had happened and washed the petrol off, but didn't have time to do anything about it. The next week, I only put in half a tank just to be careful, and as I was screwing the fuel cap back on, the whole nozzle came off in my hands!

lol same thing happened to me, looks like this is common problem! Also everytime i start the car and look into the drivers side mirror i see fumes from the petrol cap...

Looks like i'll be getting some of this Knead-it stuff this weekend... Good one thanks mate.

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
Looks like i'll be getting some of this Knead-it stuff this weekend... Good one thanks mate.

Yeah it's good stuff... you've gotta work pretty quick though... from what I remember (this was over a year ago now...) it's like 10 or 15 minutes until it's 100% set... but the last few minutes it's almost set anyway and it's pretty hard to work with!

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted
lol same thing happened to me, looks like this is common problem! Also everytime i start the car and look into the drivers side mirror i see fumes from the petrol cap...

Looks like i'll be getting some of this Knead-it stuff this weekend... Good one thanks mate.

same with me... looks like im off to bunnings..... stupid Q as i cant really look cause my car not here atm, but how can i access the section that needs to be stuck back on? is it only the part behind the fuel cap? or is the problem further down the pipe?

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
same with me... looks like im off to bunnings..... stupid Q as i cant really look cause my car not here atm, but how can i access the section that needs to be stuck back on? is it only the part behind the fuel cap? or is the problem further down the pipe?

For me it was just the little tube that the cap screws onto with the reducing hole/flap so that only an unleaded nozzle fits in. If I remember, I'll take a photo of it tonight... not that you can really see much because it's all covered in Knead-It now!

Cougar Apprentice

Cougar

Posted
Posted

I work with knead-it quite abit, get a spray bottle and wet your hands and the knead-it (just a couple of squirts, not to much) and it will give you more time to use it and really get the two compunds mixed before you use it.

nada Contributor

nada

Posted
Posted
stupid Q as i cant really look cause my car not here atm, but how can i access the section that needs to be stuck back on? is it only the part behind the fuel cap? or is the problem further down the pipe?

When u unscrew the fuel cap, youll see the peice that holds the cap on, its the round peice of metal which has the little spring flap on it for when u insert the nozzle etc. you cant miss it :(

Mine was on fairly tight as the glue was still good, thats why i questioned if the leak was coming form there, even though i could see the fumes coming out from there. But i then came to the conclusion that the glue proabaly didnt go all the way around, so i got pliers and wrapped a cloth around so i wouldnt scratch anything and just gripped on the metal bit and moved it around abit, and eventually it became loose, and yeh i was right the glue was good but they just didnt properly apply it all around, so some air would escape.

I then stripped off the old glue, and then put some glue on the inside of the tank mouth and then applied a generous amount on the back side rim of the metal bit i pulled off, then stuck it into the hole and held it down tight for abit and left it over night to dry.

I then filled her up the next day and closed the cap, you should hear that clicking noise when u tighten it all the way, that means the metal bit u glued on is dried and secure. when i got hom i opened my fuel cap and WHOOSH, lol i never really knew how much u can miss that sound :D

But hope you guys get ur problem fixed, lol just try not sit there for hours opening and closing ur cap after its done, might get high on the fumes :D

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here are some pics I took just now... I know the quality is crappy (just the camera on my phone) but at least you can get an Idea of how I used the Knead-It to fix it. And yes... this is NEVER gonna come off :)

If I had known what the Knead-It would be like, I would have been better prepared and made it look a lot better... but once it's set theres not much you can do! I would have liked to get it much smoother and looking more stock... but this is how it is so that's how it's staying!

At least it doesn't leak or anything... and yeah, you can tell it's a good seal when you open the cap (especially on a warm day) and hear the 'Woosh!'.

post-26444-1221569747_thumb.jpg post-26444-1221569810_thumb.jpg post-26444-1221569879_thumb.jpg post-26444-1221569924_thumb.jpg post-26444-1221570076_thumb.jpg post-26444-1221570124_thumb.jpg

Edited by Samon
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

wow your petrol hole is so small, the nozle hole in mine is about 5 times bigger..... which is the original one???? the big hole or the one pictured above???? also it doesnt cause any probs, i still hear the woosh when i open it...

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

mine doesnt spill with spirited cornering either. but wen i start it i look in the mirror and can see the fumes coming from the petrol cap.

thanks all. hoping to get my car back this arvo and get some kneadit onti it. lol.

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
er...

i dont even have that... and i dont have fumes / smells coming from mine?

Nor does it spill at full tank when i take hard cornering?

explain anyone???

Well you may have the original Japanese filler... which would have sealed perfectly as designed. It's just that when complied, they're supposed to change it to one that only fits the Australian Unleaded nozzle, which is not always done so well, hence the leaking and breaking off. If it wasn't changed, then it's not likely to leak!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...