Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have had a towbar and wire plug fitted.was then told that with this model of car the indicators draw too much current when you have a trailer or caravan connected,so would have to replace caravan indicator bulbs with led.have done that and at least the indicators work now,but very faint. ha s anybody overcome this problem? any help/comments most appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236806-v-series-towbar-wiring/
Share on other sites

ok - if you were QLD based I was going to tell you to come see me.

I would find a autoelec used to working on BMW/benz as those cars sort of follow your rules.

the idea on what I have said is to switch current off the battery supply rather than the acutal lights. you use the lights to trip the relays.

You need something called a power converter - attached is the Infiniti TSB that talks about it (G35 = USDM version of our V35 Skylines). Basically it is a box that contains the relays which Chris refers to.

Not sure where you can get these in NZ - maybe Supercheap/Repco?

As Chris notes somebody who works with Euro cars can probably help.

Where did you get your towbar fitted and what did it cost? Been meaning to get one fitted to my 250GT for a while now...

If you get this sorted can you post up here again - useful info for the Auckland dwellers... :(

ITB04_020e.pdf

that in reality gives MORE than enough info to make one.

go to jaycar and get:

5 transistors (BC337 will do)

5 10k resistors

5 diodes (1N4004 will do)

5 SPST 12v relays (12v coils)

and build 5 separate circuits using the transistor and resistor to drive the relay . the diode is there for spike protection from the relay coil

see here for the concept:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/relaydrv.pdf

you need the first one

diopro.gif

background here

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm

from there Download the data sheet on the BC337

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/...ips/BC337_3.pdf

pin it out and away you go.

the OE lights fire the transistor (draw on this is WELL below the spec in the nissan sheet posted above.) that in turn fires the relay and sends 12v to the auxilary lights (IE trailer.)

theres my $1 worth on this topic :(

holy crap,thats too much information,im a chippy not a diode soldering type person.!! the tow bar was manufactured and fitted by ackerbilt in penrose,nice tidy job but i obviously cant recommend their wiring!!.it cost $490.00 all up.will post again when this is sorted.thanks people for your help.

Cheers for that Chris, wish I had time to whip up something like that...

I'm guessing you should be able to get something like that from an auto sparky who knows what they are doing. I know a good one in Pt Chev - Ron Wood auto electrical. Not sure if he has these modules, but he knows what he is doing so might be able to help.

Will keep my eye open for one of these modules - shouldn't be too hard to come by these days.

Ant,

thing is with these cars I have to make things like that. I have found if you upset one of these cars it will stay mad at you for a LONG time. the later cars ('04.5+ ) are straight CAN and really do not like being fiddled with.

background is electronics eng. mixed with autoelectrics.

find someone who has a electronics background they can knock that up in no time. (I'm in the midst of doing one now for a car.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...