Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a r33 gts-t but with a rb26/30 engine in it, she has full forged internals - Arias pistons, Arias Rods, Full Tomei Gasket kit, upgraded cams...lets just say she is a weapon but he thing is its got standard turbos on it, im wondering if anyone out there could tell me whether to go back to a single turbo formation or keep the twin setup, also what type of turbos to use...im looking for big hp out of this engine as its built for it...

thanks every1 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/
Share on other sites

Been looking at this lately aswell, as im leaning towards a home built RB26/30 instead of a straight Rb26

Lost of guys in the UK have done alot of research and testing on turbos for 3.0l RBs (one dude has tried like 5 different turbo setups...cash to burn) and there is loads of info on both the SAU RB30 dyno sticky and on the UK GTR forum.

But from what ive gathered in my research lately, ill give you sorta both ends of the power spectrums for both setups...

Most of the local boys seem to like using singles, with a GT30R as a minimum (350+rwkw) and serious cars use hardware like GT42Rs and T51Rs (600+rwkw).

But twins could still be an option. Garrett -5s are probably the minimum and i think would spool nice and quickly (350+rwkw) and on the other end the scale a highmount pair of Garrett GT3071s would make for a wild ride (600+rwkw).

You need to set some firm goals, both for power and responsiveness. What will the car be used for etc. And then use all the resources to work out what the best setup will be for you.

Hope that gets you started

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4149100
Share on other sites

A few people on here run GT3076R turbos in the .82 AR rears they are making good boost around 3000rpm and top out at 300-320kw, then there is the GT3582R, in .82 AR rear this turbo is capable of ~350-370kw and is on good boost levels around 3500rpm and with the 1.06 AR rear is good for a bit over 400kw with good boost levels around the 4000rpm mark. (by good boost levels i mean 1 bar or more)

i personally haven't looked into the twin setups much so cant really comment on them but the Veilside R32 drag car runs twin GT3582R's so if 1400hp is your goal that's a possibility :banana:

Edited by TiTAN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4149157
Share on other sites

if your sticking with the stock manifolds get twin

else single high mount

as said above set some power/response/cars purpose goals

twin you need 2 of everything so it will cost more, unless you get soemthing like a GT-RS twin setup on stock manifolds

then you can utilise most of the existing hardware

high mount single ftw.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4149256
Share on other sites

Turbonetics GTK series gets my vote... either the 650 / 800. Just came out from a build with one of these and we are most impressed with the results. Compared to the Garrett items; cheaper, better build quality, and better performance IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4149481
Share on other sites

GT35R

T04Z

T51R

Twin GT-RS's

Twin 2540's

Twin -5's

Twin -10's

Since the day i drove my 3L ive wanted to have a go of a built 2630 with something like r34 n1's or 2530's just to see how much fun that can be in the hills

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4159895
Share on other sites

I don't think it's going to be a very fair comment from me as I do run an auto transmission with a high-stall convertor. Car is still at the tuners (awaiting new flex plate) so all I can go off is the initial graphs.

14 psi is reached at 4,200rpm...

I'll post up more info next week after the tuning is finished, as I believe this result can be improved by tweaking the E-01, so far only the F-CON has been tuned and not the EBC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4169086
Share on other sites

GT35R

T04Z

T51R

Twin GT-RS's

Twin 2540's

Twin -5's

Twin -10's

Since the day i drove my 3L ive wanted to have a go of a built 2630 with something like r34 n1's or 2530's just to see how much fun that can be in the hills

A mate has these on his 30, makes 540whp @ 1.3bar!

I've got a GT35R w/ .82 housing to go on my 30 :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4169770
Share on other sites

hurry up and get it on there already bubba :)

Soon! plenum should be ready very shortly, spoke to the fabricator on Tuesday, all the prep work was done and he was about to start welding!

Got a graph for the 2540's?

What else is done to it - cams, headwork etc?

I bet its a fkn rocket

No graph handy, it's a 25t head (no porting or anything), 272 cams I think, greddy plenum, q45 t/b.. and it's in a 4wd platform.. yes, it's a fkn rocket :D

I have a clip of it's first night out.. pm me if you want to check it out ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4172400
Share on other sites

:)

Not sure what to do with my exhaust.. was thinking 3" dump off the turbo, then join the gate pipe in where the front pump turns horizontal and flare to 3.5".. or should I be going bigger straight off the turbo?

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237148-rb2630/#findComment-4172480
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...