Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the car isnt actually that bad.

if/when it gets defected all ill need is stock wheels, stock suspension, and stock exhaust. then just remove boost controller and that little shit.

guages etc are legal, so it wont be that much hard work.

lol mods are the least of ur worries going through inspection mate, its the roadworthy stuff ull get pinned on. it depends on the inspector and their impression of ur car, but as an example i have been failed for things like a small tear in my drivers seat, a patch of oil about 1" in diametre in my engine bay etc etc, ive been pretty lucky in the past though as i go completely over the car, tidy everything up, degrease the engine, spray the underside of the car, and since ive been through the process and know what they look at i pass 1st go most of the time. when my car came in from Japan i took it to a compliance place and on top of the actual compliance work they gave me 2 pages worth of shit to fix/replace myself before going through regency, and the car was in pretty good nick, so there's not heaps to do before i go through each time now days as most of it has been fixed to get through regency not long before but its still at least about 20hrs of work to get the car ready for regency each time.

I want what SHYGRL's rolling on, very nice looking rims. They fit a GTR?

Or i want some Volk Racing GT-C's in the gold. very noice :cool:

definitely tough rims, i have the same ones but in bronze. (17x9, +20 and +30) so they wont suit a GTR unless u fit 10mm spacers to the front.

these will also be for sale in the next couple of weeks.

post-16187-1222603095_thumb.jpg

To all those saying you must buy "jap rims" this is what wheelworx can supply :cool:

It's all about knowing what offset you need and ordering accordingly, NOT going to Knob Jane and asking for "rims that will fit your skyline" because then you will get whatever they have in 5x114.3 in absolute shit offset

NewWheels2.jpg

NewWheels1.jpg

so you mean, 34 gtr rims? lol.

hmm, i guess i do, haha.

weight can also be a factor when buying aus(china) rims over japs rims, but if your just cruising in your car and its not a track car that needs to save weight then it really doesnt matter

hmm, i guess i do, haha.

weight can also be a factor when buying aus(china) rims over japs rims, but if your just cruising in your car and its not a track car that needs to save weight then it really doesnt matter

it does matter, just not as much. light wheels help ur suspension absorb bumps better and transfer less shock into the chassis, better ride comfort, handling (grip), accleration and braking. how much u notice it depends i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...