Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well this is starting to annoy the shit out of me.. Long story short.. I got some New Tyres Fitted to my 20" rims on R34 GT-T. previously had ghey WANLI's with puncture.. no probs. got New Kuhmo's fitted to Rims, Same size 225/35/R20.

Came home Put wheels on. went for a very short drive and noticed that the Upper control arm is scrubbing badly on top flat part of the tyre, and quite audible too.. any ideas what this is? I tried to contact the place where I purchased them but they are closed.. sadly..

:mellow:

fairly obvious isnt it, tyre is to big for vehicle, just because it is same size as specified doesnt mean each manufacturers tyres are identical size. think of it like shoes. size 9 in different brand can be different size.

Well this is starting to annoy the shit out of me.. Long story short.. I got some New Tyres Fitted to my 20" rims on R34 GT-T. previously had ghey WANLI's with puncture.. no probs. got New Kuhmo's fitted to Rims, Same size 225/35/R20.

Came home Put wheels on. went for a very short drive and noticed that the Upper control arm is scrubbing badly on top flat part of the tyre, and quite audible too.. any ideas what this is? I tried to contact the place where I purchased them but they are closed.. sadly..

;)

What width and offset?

Even with the slight differences between the patterns, there is no way a 225/35/20 should be rubbing?

Do the wheels sit well inside the guard much?

No spacers on the hub, the wheel sits roughly half inch inside the guard. im gonna get some 10mm spacers, and see if that can correct it.

  • 2 weeks later...
No spacers on the hub, the wheel sits roughly half inch inside the guard. im gonna get some 10mm spacers, and see if that can correct it.

How did you go with the rims? Please tell me you weren't meaning floating spacers, if you have to use any you should use a bolt on item. I had to use them on my brothers Stagea when 20s wer fitted (it had the same issue as you have).

I ended up doing a Jesse James and getting the old grinder out. Nothing too serious, just a few mill off the upper control side arms. looks good too. gave me just over a Centimeter clearance.

I ended up doing a Jesse James and getting the old grinder out. Nothing too serious, just a few mill off the upper control side arms. looks good too. gave me just over a Centimeter clearance.

:wave:

Ok...

either way if you get a 225/35/20 it should be 225mm wide, 35% of that tall and for a 20 inch rim. I can tell there may be ever so slight differences but it shouldnt be much. Maybe your 20s were second hand and the tires already worn down with the last set?

Either way i will chew my tire up before grinding away my control arms

The correct answer to this entire thread is your tyre profile is completely incorrect! Factory OD (overall diameter) is approx 634mm (225/45/17). with 225/35/20 you have increased your OD to 665mm which is close to 5% or an extra 30mm which would have most likely thrown ur speedo out as well. In QLD, the max you can increase your OD by is 15mm.

So I would advise you to go back to whichever tyre shop you got your wheels from and get them to put the correct profile tyres on. Without knowing what width your wheels are, I'd recommend 235/30/20 to bring it close to factory OD.

different tyres have bigger tread then others. with kumos mine rubs on the coilovers at the back. if you get 225/30/20 they will be exactly the same size as a 33 stocky so you should be fine. i got sunny tyres once n the 20 was smaller then my stockies standing next to it but i still got defeted because " my speedo was out". load of bullshit. it changed it by .5 km/h. moral of the story is dont get kumos...they will be balled before you finish your tank of petrol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...