Jump to content
SAU Community

Upper Control Arm Scrubbing On New 20" Tyres.. Wtf?

Gazzilla
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gazzilla Experienced

Gazzilla

Posted
Posted

Well this is starting to annoy the shit out of me.. Long story short.. I got some New Tyres Fitted to my 20" rims on R34 GT-T. previously had ghey WANLI's with puncture.. no probs. got New Kuhmo's fitted to Rims, Same size 225/35/R20.

Came home Put wheels on. went for a very short drive and noticed that the Upper control arm is scrubbing badly on top flat part of the tyre, and quite audible too.. any ideas what this is? I tried to contact the place where I purchased them but they are closed.. sadly..

:mellow:

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

fairly obvious isnt it, tyre is to big for vehicle, just because it is same size as specified doesnt mean each manufacturers tyres are identical size. think of it like shoes. size 9 in different brand can be different size.

Well this is starting to annoy the shit out of me.. Long story short.. I got some New Tyres Fitted to my 20" rims on R34 GT-T. previously had ghey WANLI's with puncture.. no probs. got New Kuhmo's fitted to Rims, Same size 225/35/R20.

Came home Put wheels on. went for a very short drive and noticed that the Upper control arm is scrubbing badly on top flat part of the tyre, and quite audible too.. any ideas what this is? I tried to contact the place where I purchased them but they are closed.. sadly..

;)

Gazzilla Experienced

Gazzilla

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What width and offset?

Even with the slight differences between the patterns, there is no way a 225/35/20 should be rubbing?

Do the wheels sit well inside the guard much?

No spacers on the hub, the wheel sits roughly half inch inside the guard. im gonna get some 10mm spacers, and see if that can correct it.

  • 2 weeks later...
~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted
No spacers on the hub, the wheel sits roughly half inch inside the guard. im gonna get some 10mm spacers, and see if that can correct it.

How did you go with the rims? Please tell me you weren't meaning floating spacers, if you have to use any you should use a bolt on item. I had to use them on my brothers Stagea when 20s wer fitted (it had the same issue as you have).

Gazzilla Experienced

Gazzilla

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up doing a Jesse James and getting the old grinder out. Nothing too serious, just a few mill off the upper control side arms. looks good too. gave me just over a Centimeter clearance.

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
I ended up doing a Jesse James and getting the old grinder out. Nothing too serious, just a few mill off the upper control side arms. looks good too. gave me just over a Centimeter clearance.

:wave:

Ok...

either way if you get a 225/35/20 it should be 225mm wide, 35% of that tall and for a 20 inch rim. I can tell there may be ever so slight differences but it shouldnt be much. Maybe your 20s were second hand and the tires already worn down with the last set?

Either way i will chew my tire up before grinding away my control arms

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

The correct answer to this entire thread is your tyre profile is completely incorrect! Factory OD (overall diameter) is approx 634mm (225/45/17). with 225/35/20 you have increased your OD to 665mm which is close to 5% or an extra 30mm which would have most likely thrown ur speedo out as well. In QLD, the max you can increase your OD by is 15mm.

So I would advise you to go back to whichever tyre shop you got your wheels from and get them to put the correct profile tyres on. Without knowing what width your wheels are, I'd recommend 235/30/20 to bring it close to factory OD.

steve33 Collaborator

steve33

Posted
Posted

different tyres have bigger tread then others. with kumos mine rubs on the coilovers at the back. if you get 225/30/20 they will be exactly the same size as a 33 stocky so you should be fine. i got sunny tyres once n the 20 was smaller then my stockies standing next to it but i still got defeted because " my speedo was out". load of bullshit. it changed it by .5 km/h. moral of the story is dont get kumos...they will be balled before you finish your tank of petrol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...