Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got my R34 serviced, replaced the coils, adjusted the idle a little bit and replaced the boost sensor.

Now i realised when i gave it a bit, boost did not go over .86 bar at all. Why is that? Normally it will go to around 1bar of boost!! frown.gif

I'm stressed and worried!

It would have to be the boost sensor right? Does it need a reset or something?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237986-boost-problem-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

That seems to the be the stock boost level of an r34, wouldnt be too worried. and it gives you some security against boost spiking in 1st and 2nd gear.

Try it yourself, nail the throttle in 2nd and see what boost you reach on the mfd.

then nail in 3rd gear and see what the boost reaches

ps: dont forget to reset the mfd (middle joystick) everytime.

you have an EBC??? computer???

Hey guys,

I just got my R34 serviced, replaced the coils, adjusted the idle a little bit and replaced the boost sensor.

Now i realised when i gave it a bit, boost did not go over .86 bar at all. Why is that? Normally it will go to around 1bar of boost!! frown.gif

I'm stressed and worried!

It would have to be the boost sensor right? Does it need a reset or something?

Thanks!

I know what your experiencing, mine does this to on occasion. More often than not mine will run up to 1.07 on the mfd, then every now and then something happens and it runs a max of about 0.8 bar and feels very flat and lathargic. I have no idea why, and its an intermittant fault, generally when its warm and it has been driving in a spirited fashion. I can turn the car off and start it again and it goes away!!! cant work it out...I was hoping it was just a minor fault [glitch]with the factory ecu, so i figured once i had a pfc it would be problem solved!!!! That may or may not fix the problem though.......

Im very interested if somebody can solve this problem for us, if indeed we have the same problem....

Paulr33 please help mate!!!! cheers!!!

Edited by Duncan1
I know what your experiencing, mine does this to on occasion. More often than not mine will run up to 1.07 on the mfd, then every now and then something happens and it runs a max of about 0.8 bar and feels very flat and lathargic. I have no idea why, and its an intermittant fault, generally when its warm and it has been driving in a spirited fashion. I can turn the car off and start it again and it goes away!!! cant work it out...I was hoping it was just a minor fault [glitch]with the factory ecu, so i figured once i had a pfc it would be problem solved!!!! That may or may not fix the problem though.......

Im very interested if somebody can solve this problem for us, if indeed we have the same problem....

Paulr33 please help mate!!!! cheers!!!

Hey duncan, remember i had the same prob as you? well mines all fixed now after i installed my new EBC. I got the HKS EVC version 6.

it hold boost nicely at 1.0bar in 3rd gear loads but in 2nd there is no stopping the boost spike to 1.10-1.20bar. Im contemplating buying the HKS actuators which are preset to 0.8-1.1bar and see if that helps.

Oh a little problem found was a loose vacumn line under the plenum chamber which was throwing off proper boost control so you might wanna get someone to check it out.

Took my tuner 2 hours to diagnose the prob; we thought it was the ebc faulty.

I will run over the hoses, but I am pretty sure they are fine.

Before I could drive the car and hit 1.02 Bar of boost no problem, but yesterday after i got it serviced it just stopped at .86 Bar. Bit dissapointing because you don't feel the power come on.

So you think you can turn the car off and it will go away? You will reach 1.0 bar of boost then? I will give that a go too, see if that works. Just annoying!

If someone gets a new ECU or boost controller, let me know if that helps.

Hey duncan, remember i had the same prob as you? well mines all fixed now after i installed my new EBC. I got the HKS EVC version 6.

it hold boost nicely at 1.0bar in 3rd gear loads but in 2nd there is no stopping the boost spike to 1.10-1.20bar. Im contemplating buying the HKS actuators which are preset to 0.8-1.1bar and see if that helps.

Oh a little problem found was a loose vacumn line under the plenum chamber which was throwing off proper boost control so you might wanna get someone to check it out.

Took my tuner 2 hours to diagnose the prob; we thought it was the ebc faulty.

Thanks again mate, will get it sorted soon, ebc sounds like a good idea. Bit scary when you see 1.2 bar register on the mfd!!! feels great though!!!!

Sorry for gatecrashing your thread Turbo Piston.....

Edited by Duncan1

I have same boost controller as Johnny. I run 1.2 bar every day on stock turbos. No dramas.

If I go on a mountain run where I will be on and off boost continuously for a long period, I just adjust it back to 1 bar.

Turbo Piston, I would suggest pitting an EBC in for sure

Alright, I'm going to check all hoses and reset the ECU first.

How do I reset the ECU? I'm assuming there is a reset button on it?

And another way to fix it would be to get a boost controller?

Before all this though guys, what was your R34 GTR displaying on the MFD? did it vary as well? Or normally sit on the 1.0 bar of boost?

Looks like everyone's reading is different. I finally took my car out for a drive since i wrote this post, been sick in bed. Assuming all the hoses were good, I gave it a go.

Soon as I turned it on, I realised the MFD was displaying the oil temp I had 4 days ago, which is a bit odd, normally it displays - - since there is no recording yet.

Anyway got to the servo, turned the car off, turned it back on and the oil was back to normal -- good. Think the car needed a reset, don't know!

First gear .96

Second 1.02

Third (not enough road) :)

Did that several times, pretty much identical recordings, so maybe after the service it just needed to be switched off or something. Unless when its hot outside and it has been driven hard, it automatically reduces the amount of boost. Because during the service of the car, it was a really hot day and the car had been on for while and a bit of hard driving was used too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...