Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nope, wasnt it..... well, it idles a little bit better, but still has a massivly loud

boost leak.....

im bout to have a look at the intercooler piping behind the front bar.

this is better than day time telivision for all you mofo's aint it!

you love it.

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Its a simple process of elimination ... fix all the obvious points, and eventually you'll find the problem.

It will also save you some labour time with the mechanics when you can tell them what the problem is not.

:)

yeah, ther is a pipe that goes from the front of the plennum, to the left cam cover,

the plug is making a hissing sound, and upon further inspection, the plug going inot the cam cover is broken..

still dosnt fix the boost leak though..thats my main concern atm

maybe it is a rooted turbo :)

nope, wasnt it..... well, it idles a little bit better, but still has a massivly loud

boost leak.....

if it's so loud cant u just chuck ur head in the engine bay and listen for it? get someone in the car loading up the engine etc.

i tried that, it onlly does it when on boost driving.....

doesnt do it free revving in the driveway from what i can hear.

fixed up the hose to the cam cover, but still idle shit and

blolwing shit loads of smoke now.

although have you checked your boost controller?

my old 180 blew alot of smoke once, it was because a breather hose on the rocker cover crimped itself, which stopped it from breathing, and resulted in a heap of smoke.

Edited by ted180

well heres what i replaced today

oil catch can hoses (blue silicon heater hose)

throttle body/cross over pipe joiner

top radiator hose

took the mesh out of afm

and thats it.

every thing else went back on as it come off

i have offered you the solution yet u still refuse to help yourself

why?

if you dont have a compressor drive to the servo and do it there.

turn your car off, open the bonnet, undo your afm install freezer bag and then reinstall afm

it takes 2 minutes and by doing this test it will act as if your car is on boost and therefor expand the hoses enough that they will piss out air.

without your car running it is easy as to hear if and where you have a leek.

2 minutes and then you can tell everyone where the leek was.

well it does sound like your leaking air, if its on the wrong side of the AFM it can do lots of bad things, like put in too much fuel. the AFM is really easy to break. and if you have a oiled pod the oil can foul the little wire inside it, and cause havok. if you took out the mesh in afm i suss you might have accidentaly hit the wire. have you looked inside the AFM to see if its still ok? really fine wire you might need a torch to see it.

one thing you might try is a squirt bottle full of soapy water , if the car runs spray it around the gaskets/joints while idling, you will notice the engine will fluctuate in RPM or die if you hit a leak, just dont spray it into anything electrical or spark plugs or AFM intake. the soapy water will sometimes blow bubbles when it finds air leaking . a vacuum cleaner hose is good to hear air leaks as well, just hold it to your ear and move it carefully around the bay when u hit the leak it will be loud as.

the fuel pressure regulator has a vacumm type hose on it if you pinch it with your fingers slightly when running the engine should change the idle speed a bit. (not sure about your regulator model)

are you sure the cross over on the throttle body is sealed up good with clamps, if not that can cause your symtoms

is the smoke black or blue, white? i thought you said black. does the motor sound like its miss firing at idle or 3-4k?

if its a vacuum leak it normally runs fast or slow on idle unless its in one of the power curcuits or AFM

what part of town do you live in im off work this week and if it south i can pop over for a look ?

let me know

cheers hope u get it sorted

i have offered you the solution yet u still refuse to help yourself

why?

if you dont have a compressor drive to the servo and do it there.

turn your car off, open the bonnet, undo your afm install freezer bag and then reinstall afm

it takes 2 minutes and by doing this test it will act as if your car is on boost and therefor expand the hoses enough that they will piss out air.

without your car running it is easy as to hear if and where you have a leek.

2 minutes and then you can tell everyone where the leek was.

i agree have you tried this trick, i think both of us think your AFM is confused...lol

i have offered you the solution yet u still refuse to help yourself

why?

if you dont have a compressor drive to the servo and do it there.

turn your car off, open the bonnet, undo your afm install freezer bag and then reinstall afm

it takes 2 minutes and by doing this test it will act as if your car is on boost and therefor expand the hoses enough that they will piss out air.

without your car running it is easy as to hear if and where you have a leek.

2 minutes and then you can tell everyone where the leek was.

i agree have you tried this trick, i think both of us think your AFM is confused...lol

Damo

black smoke is too much fuel or fuel ratio stuffed

white is blown head gasket=water in combustion or even a bad seal in a water cooled turbo

Blue is oil in combustion process, turbo seal, rings, valves, or even headgaskets if blown in the right spot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...