Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Removal Engineered?

Dinstg8r

By Dinstg8r,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

bezender Grand Master

bezender

Posted
Posted

i kinda like my hicas (altho it is a bit fkt) can flick the car around.

im gonna have to get rid of it cos its had it, would love to know what the price is to get it engineered.

keep us updated on how u go Jason

Inline 6 Grand Master

Inline 6

Posted
Posted (edited)

i tried 2 other engineers and they didnt wanna hear it when i told them i dont know what brand it was and didnt have the paperwork to show who installed it.

actually just looked it up, im a accountant i keep records :) was $1200 that included $400 for air track hire for the test and at that point in time i just wanted my friggen car back on the road after 6months of f ing around. if your dudes happy to do it for that price go for it.

it should also be mentioned the other 2 numbers of engineers i got were from a clown that engineered her car just to know it was safe :P 5 pound boost scary stuff.

atleast i got awesome pics of my car around and on the race track :) and a sandman lit on fire there very entertaining, he's the only 1 that didnt pass.

no one mentioned this other engineer on my thread now you tell me :D

my original noobie thread from back in the day :( funny looking back know i know who the guys messaging me on there are

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...rt-t152568.html

Edited by Inline 6
GTR-32 Experienced

GTR-32

Posted
Posted
hicas is really annoying! it's sort of hard to tell when it occurs until you lock it.

when you're sliding with hicas, everything is under control, then all of a sudden the car tries to straighten itself. counter steering is when it becomes dangerous and unpredictable.

once you lock it, you'll wish you did it earlier :P

Does/will it do this with the 4WD fuse taken out?

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

wtf was with this comment?

or the record, all (i think) nissan turbo cars come with a bov - just the plumb back type. It'd be simple enough to fit a stock one when getting it checked and replace it afterwards.

If they ask does it have a bov you can say yes but its plumb back and factory standard. Nothing illegal about the factory bov. smile.gif

Good luck with it all. smile.gif

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted
wtf was with this comment?

I don't know where it come from and they are wrong, Pretty much all the CA18det engined Nissans didn't come fitted with BOV of any description.

And as for the X-raying of weld I would have loved for them to tell me that because it is a load of BS. all that X-raying lets you do is when you are designing the part you can use a 0.9 reduction factor for the welds instead of a 0.6 reduction factor they aren't X-rayed. This means that is you can't get enough strength in a weld using the 0.6 factor then you have to specify a 0.9 factor weld and they have to be x-rayed. Due to the cost of the X-raying process and the fact that generally you can get more than enough strength out of your designed weld the x-rayed specified welds are almost never used.

  • 2 weeks later...
jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted
HICAS shouldnt be kicking in before 80kph, tho it'll certainly give u error messages before that speed

Mines currently stuffed, and I'm in the process of getting the tools to fix it properly (first and foremost being a conzult interface)

When it wasnt broken it made high speed driving very very responsive... most people aren't really ready for that swift turn in, they expect the front wheels will take a fraction of a second to actually bite... basically it shifts the arse end of the car around quicker than most people expect...

When its stuffed (like mine is now) it can be the bane of yr existence. It'll mess with the power steering if the hicas computer malfunctions, you'll constantly have an annoying light on after 15 minutes, and then you'll get random actions happening if you do actually take it past 80kph within the first 15 minutes... like cruising down a highway in a straight line and ur rear wheels turn that 1'.... it makes a huge difference, especially to the amount of nappy san you have to add to your soiled undergarments...

I've got a similar problem with mine right now - didn't know it was playing up until I went for a drive from Adelaide -> Melbourne and found that at 100kph my steering wheel was turning by itself and then at 110 HICAS seemed to turn itself off and the rear end started going sideways and the wheel straightened up. I quickly pulled over and ripped the HICAS fuse to stop me getting into an accident.

I've since taken it to Nissan to get them to check it out and they reckon they chucked it on CONSULT and that the system thinks that when the steering wheel is at an angle (about 90deg right) that it's actually straight. I got no idea how that could have even happened! I've only had the car for 18 months, and haven't had much chance to go over 60 in a while - probably at least since I had the camber/caster stuff fitted.

They basically gave me a set of instructions to get things fixed up to give to a suspension/alignment place (involving taking steering wheel off, aligning the steering rack, lining things up on the HICAS steering angle, etc), but without being able to detect when the steering wheel is detected as 'straight' by the HICAS system (through CONSULT), i'm not sure how helpful it's gonna be to them :P I do have a CONSULT cable but without the software to do HICAS diagnostics, I'm kinda stuffed...

I'd honestly prefer to keep the HICAS - when it was working, I found it was kinda nice to drive with - but I can imagine it could get hairy in some situations on the limit ...

Anyways, any ideas - have you got any access to CONZULT? :)

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
Posted
...

once you get the report though its a good opening comment to being pulled over, i have a engineers report if you would like to read it :P usual response seems to be "thats ok mate I don't know how to read a engineers report" as they couldnt understand it.

...

Fixed :dry:

Does/will it do this with the 4WD fuse taken out?

Take out the 4WD fuse and your ABS light will come on from what I've heard. Hicas and the 4WD system are controlled by 2 different computers. There's a massive amount of threads on here about the fuse for the 4WD system on the 32's.

If your Hicas is playing up (it will when your wheel alignment is out) then throw the car on a hoist and make sure all 4 weeks are not touching anything. Switch on the car and the Hicas will reset itself. When all 4 wheels are off the ground, Hicas will sense that the cars wheels aren't on the ground and goes into a different mode will reset itself and begin fresh (entering new data into it's memory) so then it won't think you're driving in a straight line when you're on a angle. This is also useful if you've just had a huge wheel alignment.

My Hicas was stuffing up a while back and it caused the steering to go really heavy - although this was more than just the Hicas, as it turns out I had a loose battery terminal causing crazy stuff to happen!! Who knows how that came loose (cough alarm installation place cough).

Hicas only kicks in over 80k/h and will change the rear wheels 0.5 +/- degree's in each direction when cornering hard. When it kicks in, it's fantastic! But when you need a wheel alignment, the system goes crazy. Hicas will also kick up a fuss if you have a aftermarket steering wheel installed.

Some people tend to think that it's constant 4 wheel steering... it's not.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
If your Hicas is playing up (it will when your wheel alignment is out) then throw the car on a hoist and make sure all 4 weeks are not touching anything. Switch on the car and the Hicas will reset itself. When all 4 wheels are off the ground, Hicas will sense that the cars wheels aren't on the ground and goes into a different mode will reset itself and begin fresh (entering new data into it's memory) so then it won't think you're driving in a straight line when you're on a angle. This is also useful if you've just had a huge wheel alignment.

good info, thanks cronic.

Probably explains a few handling issues that I encountered on the way to Kadina after a wheel alignment the day before

Dinstg8r Collaborator

Dinstg8r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought I'd let you guys know(those that Pm'd me)

That I've taken the easy way out after finding a second hand rack. :kiss:

So I wont be getting it engineered at this stage, so I cant help with giving

feedback on that unfortunatly.

Thanks for the help and input everyone.

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...