Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nah didn fix it.. i already posted that lol! sigh but yeh least shes got new sparkies..

Its a process of elimination then! Knock off the list what it could be, until you find what it is! :banana:

Its a process of elimination then! Knock off the list what it could be, until you find what it is! :D

aw that sucks, even though i may be replacing parts, i could be doing somthign wrong.. so i guess ill start fromt he beggining..

afm - checked it out.. i have an aftermarket z32 (which could be causing the problem)

sparkies - i changed over though i didnt use a tensioner bar.

coilpacks - my car is not babying on 2.5k or missfiring so im pretty sure i can rule that out

bov - i changed over to my stock one, but now it plumsback through my pod which could be causing a problem

other possible things people have said is the ecu?

if theres anything ive missed feel free to add.

yeh ive been really busy lately, not to mention i dont wanna drive around just incase i get caught.. but i will eventually get round to it, perhaps on the week end ill see how it goes.

hey i noticed today that when i was ideling and used something electrical my revs dropped a tiny bit.. eg if i used the electric windows or wipers etc

also it does the same thing when i lighty push on to the accelerator, so when i take off at the lights it almost stalls then the revs pick up.. and i sort of nose dive :)

i think this only happens after ive been driving for awhile.. when i first take the car for a drive, shes all good.

maybe im in need of a new battery? or alternator?

the slight dropping of revs with lights etc is normal if it isn't any more than 150rpm. It's just your alternator placing load on the motor...The vct solinoid can create a slight drop in revs when you touch the accelerator but shouldn't ever have an effect on your driving.

the slight dropping of revs with lights etc is normal if it isn't any more than 150rpm. It's just your alternator placing load on the motor...The vct solinoid can create a slight drop in revs when you touch the accelerator but shouldn't ever have an effect on your driving.

No it dosent effect my driving because i have my foot on the accelerator, but at the lights when im leveling first gear, the moment i put pressure on the accelerator the revs drop dramatically and almosts dies so i quickly just give it more gas, YES i can drive manual, say when im in neutral and i just step on the gas ever so lightly the revs will splutter and drop till it dies.. so i have to double tap the accelerator so when the revs drop i can quickly catch it.. sorry for the bad description, iono how to put it anyway else ;)

i have a similar problem with my car, it idles under 1000, and occasionally when im waiting at say, the lights or a roundabout waiting for other cars to go past it stalls even with the clutch right in. it's due for a service and tune anyway, so i'm just booking it in at boostworx

i can come to you and we can swap things on my car and see what the problem is like afm i also have a spare ECU we could try as well

by the way i dont drink lol

OMG KELLIE UR THE BEST!!!

lol sorry everyone kellie has WON the free beer slab :) plus money for the new ECU..

SO far, so good.. ill get back to you asap kellie, probarly next week on the wednesday because its my day off.. IF thats ok with you, if anything just call or text me on the mobile.

Well looks like it was ECU problems, kellie told me that perhaps when they installed my deck unit, they could have short circuted my ecu, so yeh we swapped mine over for her spare R33 series 2 ECU, yeh started and everything, took her for a spin and yeh much better response hasnt died on me yet.. but im abit iffy that the series 2 might not be compatible.. working fine so far & no engine lights on.. im gonna surf the net and see if there are any major differences, but yeh so far shes running like a dream.. just hoping that the problem is fixed now, stress free :nuke:

ONCE AGAIN thanks kellie ur a legend!

ill keep the thread open just incase somthing screws up, but yeh thanks to everyone who contributed whether it was big or small..

SAU ROCKS MY JOCKS!

nada ;)

ARGHH, shes still dieing randomly :P and also now when i drive over a bumpy service shell like shutter, its weird as... i think i need a series 1 ecu.

But yeh im pretty sure its the ecu, because when we put in the series 2 she seemed to be better, and died less times :)

either that or its a different problem..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...1-2-t17349.html

i came across this post, and yeh seems like theres quite abit of differences between the series 1 and 2 hence the ecu not performing good.

The series 2 has an ignitor built in the ecu, as for the series one has it seperately, so that could explain the weird shake/shutter. ill try source out a working series 1 ecu and see how it goes, when i have some free time.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...1-2-t17349.html

i came across this post, and yeh seems like theres quite abit of differences between the series 1 and 2 hence the ecu not performing good.

The series 2 has an ignitor built in the ecu, as for the series one has it seperately, so that could explain the weird shake/shutter. ill try source out a working series 1 ecu and see how it goes, when i have some free time.

yea as far as i know the series 1 is like the r32 and changes after

yea as far as i know the series 1 is like the r32 and changes after

do you mean same as in the car specs or ecu? so if i got hold of a r32 ecu i can just plug and play?

and would it matter if it came off a manual or auto?

i cant seem to find any stock ecu's :/

do you mean same as in the car specs or ecu? so if i got hold of a r32 ecu i can just plug and play?

and would it matter if it came off a manual or auto?

i cant seem to find any stock ecu's :/

ill have 1 u can borrow soon mate to test, aslong as your car is manaul

is it still running the same?

or does it run like a dog, i wold be checking either ur sparkplugs, coil packs (cause when u play with them in rbs they f**k up), or go and get a compression test done. hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...