Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All I know about the engine conversion is that it was done a long time ago and I believe it was by hyperdrive? Dont quote me on that though not 100%.

I was there when my friend bought it and the owner at the time said the previous owner (old guy, like 40's) did the conversion.

Yeah the heater hoses just needed to be connected up - glad some one finally got around to doing that!!

As for the idle....my friend never looked in to that. He didnt really change the car much except for removing some stickers. So glad its finally gone to a good home - I felt sorry for the poor thing when that asian dude drove off with it =/

Ryan

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok the dam heater went today. I was hoping it would be ok but it seems there was a reason it was disconnected in the first place lol. Gonna go and pick up a new heater core tomorrow from KYP. Be a bitch to put in tho. Anyone got any experience with this?

Yeah ive done it before with one of mine. Means u have to take the entire dash surround out which is a prick of a job, then getting the heater unit itself out isnt all that fun either.

Actually replacing the core itself is easy enough though :P Nothing that you can do wrong really its all very straight forward.

Its orright.

Ide check with this guy first: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...Sh-t238834.html

Looks like hes wrecking so im sure he will have one.

PS make sure you leak test the new one before you put it in :P that would suck otherwise

hahah. no shit. Imagine having to remove the dash twice lol. I went and got it from KYP cos it was easy and i don't mind paying 80 bucks if it give me heat in the winter :) How much time did you put aside to fit the thing? I am trying to work out when i have time to do it.

Not really sure aye, the car was stashed at my girlfriends house and I just worked on it whenever I was staying there.

Probly all and all ide budget for about half a day of work going at a normal rate. Could manage < 2 hours if you were hammering it.

Ok so i have my dash all in peices. Hope i can remember where everything goes!!! I was wondering if I can remove the heater unit without removing the box circled in red. I cant really see it happening cos i have looked at it from all angles and it is a very snug fit with the aircon unit still in there.

PA070510.jpg

It is connected to this on the other side of the firewall.

PA070508.jpg

This is the airconditioning i think so i thought i had better ask before i go unbolting things :O Better safe than sorry. So my question is it necessary to remove the aircon unit and if so what can i expect when i unbolt those metal lines.

Cheers,

Will

Thought i would post a pic of the whole thing :O Cant believe how messy it all is under there!

PA070509.jpg

Took about an hour and a half to get it all off so if anyone is thinking about replacing their heater then it is definitely doable.

When I was doing mine I didnt have to remove the AC unit. Its a bit of a pain but yeah - do able :D

EDIT: If you unbolt the metal lines then the pressurized gas in the AC system will come out. Not reccomended

Edited by rinmak

Finally finished the job. I had to take the support bar off to get the heater out. A bit of brute force also helped :P If anyone needs help doing this themselves then I am now an expert lol. Next Step is getting the suspension tested. Might change the suspension anyway because the car is too low and the wheels scrape the side panels at full lock. Anyone recommend some good Street suspension? I would be looking for it second hand as well because i need to save money for the idle problem. I got new tires for the rear wheels aswell. Grand total is now $6,330 :D

Ok another question for you guys. Because the car came with no heater i had to go and get the heater hoses from KYP. A picture is shown below. My question is what do i do with that valve on there? Presumably it should connect to a solenoid of some sort to control fluid flow? Previously i had just set the valve to full open but then the air seemed to be hot all the time.

PA100512.jpg

Questions needing answers :(

1. What to do with that valve above?

2. A good street/race suspension (second hand budget $800).

Thanks in advance

Will

Hey Will, finally got around to checking out your thread. This car looks awesome. Great buy. I'm really keen to see it in the flesh. You must be over the moon!!!

I still have my R34 stockies which will get you over the pits. They have near new tyres, so you're more than welcome to borrow them while you source new rims. I'll explain offsets to you and what you need when I see you tomorrow. Its pretty easy.

Suspension wise. See if you can find some second hand Tein Super Streets. $800 might be able to get there.

Ok another question for you guys. Because the car came with no heater i had to go and get the heater hoses from KYP. A picture is shown below. My question is what do i do with that valve on there? Presumably it should connect to a solenoid of some sort to control fluid flow? Previously i had just set the valve to full open but then the air seemed to be hot all the time.

From memory there is a cable coming out of the firewall that actuates on to that valve.

Your cooling system (based on the rust on the top of the radiator) is looking shockingly corroded.

If it was my car, I'd get the entire thing flushed and pressure tested before I moved forward.

That car was a steal, but It'd drive me nuts finding what parts are missing and trying to find them and fix them etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...