Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Throttle Bodies

rob82

By rob82,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Has anybody had issues with RB26 throttles not sealing. I'm having problems reducing idle speed below around 1500rpm with the bypass screw wound right in and then timing being set to 10btdc cam timing factory setting - I know its not a tune issue. I have used all new std gaskets and know there is no vacuum leaks. I have pulled the throttle bodies off to find that they have been cleaned up. Now apparently there is a sealing film that they use from factory and it may have been rubbed off. Does anybody know how to seal them or are they now a throw-away item?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239148-rb26-throttle-bodies/
Share on other sites
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
  • Author
Posted
did u ever think ur iac (idle air control) motor is gettin stuck on sum carbon and not sealing off enough to slow the idle?

I have checked that it works electrically but I didn't check if it was gummed up - 1000rpm from closed to full duty seems about right to me. You can physically see large clearances around the throttle plates.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Did you machine or linish or die grind with a pad any of the old gasket off?

If theres big gaps in the plates then u gotta fix that first. If the AAC is playing up just block the hose going to it, its sounds dodgy but works fine without the stepup, but I dont know about when you turn the a/c on. Could really drag the idle down. Thats if the a/c works...

But you can get it idling good without the sealant gunk. I cleaned mine clean as a whistle and have idle around 800 with AAC hose blocked because the AAC is shitted.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...I have pulled the throttle bodies off to find that they have been cleaned up. Now apparently there is a sealing film that they use from factory and it may have been rubbed off....
Yes, this will be the problem. I believe a bit of nail polish will do the trick.
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yes, this will be the problem. I believe a bit of nail polish will do the trick.

I've heard thats what some people do but I just thought there is a genuine fix - what is the film that they use from factory? Besides I wouldn't know which color to use :banana: !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...