Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, ive just got a few questions before i book these into a workshop. with the neo i know it def has to be tuned after installation but how about the profec b spec 2 boost controller. ive called up and was quoted $300 just to install and tune for the boost controller only? is this correct and is price reasonable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239444-neo-ebc-installing-and-tune/
Share on other sites

by neo do you mean safc neo? you can wire that in and drive it around with out a tune. If you dont touch any settings (ie everything is set to 0) then the car will just run on the stock ecu tune, but of course you want to get it tuned because its pointless otherwise :O

The boost controller doesnt need a tune as such, but your safc neo will with the increase in boost. When they say "tuning the profec" all they are doing is setting the boost settings, nothing to do with your tune of the car. You can set the boost levels yourself, its quite easy. For the stock turbo run somewhere around 12-13psi.

Put the boost controller in first, set the boost to 12psi then put the safc neo in and get the neo tuned to the new boost level.

i think someone is pulling ur leg here.

EBC dont need tuning like safc's.

wire them both in, send it down for a tune. EBC only needs to be set at a boost lvl. hardly tuning..

i suggest maybe a different work shop.

i think someone is pulling ur leg here.

EBC dont need tuning like safc's.

EBC only needs to be set at a boost lvl. hardly tuning..

Incorrect.

The boost controller doesnt need a tune as such, but your safc neo will with the increase in boost.

Correct.

Your S-AFC tune will be relevant to the level of boost.

Install them yourself (it's not rocket science)

Then go get it tuned.

Solved.

some how i think its unreasonable for 300 dollars for "fine tuning" and installing.

Installing is only a few wires, and if u know what u doing wont take 45mins.

Profec b is a pretty simple boost controller as well.

and what i meant strich9 is that the level of tuning of EBC is nothing compared to the SAFC. and should not cost the same as a SAFC (1,2 or neo) to "fine tune"

Edited by br3ndan

Starting to get beyond a joke with the prices involved these days. $300 is what a full ecu tune was a couple of years ago now its crazy.

Just to let you know my friend payed 220 for his PROFEC B installed and then dynoed.

I installed and tuned my ProfecBII myself, then had my tuner remap my ecu to suit my setup.

For anyone who doesn't really know what they're doing it's best to at the very least get your tuner to set up your ebc on the dyno (much safer).

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...

im quoted about 600 to install the apexi neo and boost controller AND another 250-300 for dyno tuning both... the installation cost and tuning is really costing me a bomb.... :rant: but my car is running very rich and gets only 220hp on the wheels... hope the neo and boost controller can get me more... disappointing i have to say... sorry to hijack your thread...

Neo is super simple to hook up, the included instructions are more than enough. And you can drive it after you've put it in because until you change some of the MAP it's all still running normally.

I imagine a boost controller is pretty easy to do aswell...

Really all you should need to pay for is tuning the Neo once you've put the controller and the neo in.

If you have any questions about putting the Neo in, PM me and I'd be happy to answer any questions. Putting mine in my R33 was very easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...