Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, ive just got a few questions before i book these into a workshop. with the neo i know it def has to be tuned after installation but how about the profec b spec 2 boost controller. ive called up and was quoted $300 just to install and tune for the boost controller only? is this correct and is price reasonable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239444-neo-ebc-installing-and-tune/
Share on other sites

by neo do you mean safc neo? you can wire that in and drive it around with out a tune. If you dont touch any settings (ie everything is set to 0) then the car will just run on the stock ecu tune, but of course you want to get it tuned because its pointless otherwise :O

The boost controller doesnt need a tune as such, but your safc neo will with the increase in boost. When they say "tuning the profec" all they are doing is setting the boost settings, nothing to do with your tune of the car. You can set the boost levels yourself, its quite easy. For the stock turbo run somewhere around 12-13psi.

Put the boost controller in first, set the boost to 12psi then put the safc neo in and get the neo tuned to the new boost level.

i think someone is pulling ur leg here.

EBC dont need tuning like safc's.

wire them both in, send it down for a tune. EBC only needs to be set at a boost lvl. hardly tuning..

i suggest maybe a different work shop.

i think someone is pulling ur leg here.

EBC dont need tuning like safc's.

EBC only needs to be set at a boost lvl. hardly tuning..

Incorrect.

The boost controller doesnt need a tune as such, but your safc neo will with the increase in boost.

Correct.

Your S-AFC tune will be relevant to the level of boost.

Install them yourself (it's not rocket science)

Then go get it tuned.

Solved.

some how i think its unreasonable for 300 dollars for "fine tuning" and installing.

Installing is only a few wires, and if u know what u doing wont take 45mins.

Profec b is a pretty simple boost controller as well.

and what i meant strich9 is that the level of tuning of EBC is nothing compared to the SAFC. and should not cost the same as a SAFC (1,2 or neo) to "fine tune"

Edited by br3ndan

Starting to get beyond a joke with the prices involved these days. $300 is what a full ecu tune was a couple of years ago now its crazy.

Just to let you know my friend payed 220 for his PROFEC B installed and then dynoed.

I installed and tuned my ProfecBII myself, then had my tuner remap my ecu to suit my setup.

For anyone who doesn't really know what they're doing it's best to at the very least get your tuner to set up your ebc on the dyno (much safer).

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...

im quoted about 600 to install the apexi neo and boost controller AND another 250-300 for dyno tuning both... the installation cost and tuning is really costing me a bomb.... :rant: but my car is running very rich and gets only 220hp on the wheels... hope the neo and boost controller can get me more... disappointing i have to say... sorry to hijack your thread...

Neo is super simple to hook up, the included instructions are more than enough. And you can drive it after you've put it in because until you change some of the MAP it's all still running normally.

I imagine a boost controller is pretty easy to do aswell...

Really all you should need to pay for is tuning the Neo once you've put the controller and the neo in.

If you have any questions about putting the Neo in, PM me and I'd be happy to answer any questions. Putting mine in my R33 was very easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...