Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what everyone's view on this.

I want to buy a full stainless system but don't know what brand to go 4.

Do I go brand or can I just go 2 any old exhaust place and get it done by them?

I know I need to get a dump pipe with a separate wastegate pipe.

Is there anything I need to look for/should get?

Cheers for the help guys! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239525-full-exhaust-system/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

can i ask why you are going for full stainless? Mild steel is more than good enough and not as expensive

oh, and i use and recommend Aussie Dyno & Exhaust on Port Rd.

Edited by Damo_R34

i recommend rampage exhausts in holden hill.

top bloke and does a top job.

he supplied/ fitted one peice front dump, decat flanges gaskets etc for 500 bucks.

pretty good price considering tilbrooks charged me 430 bucks LABOUR just to fit my screamer.

there are plenty of good spanking new 'bolt on' systems (ie front pipe + cat back) that you can buy, but you'll end up paying a considerable amount more than what you'd pay for a custom system.

I'd personally source a dump/front pipe + hi flow cat, and a second hand japanese cat back from a wrecker.

If you're fussy, buy a nice rear muffler on its own and get the cat back pipe work fabricated at an exhaust shop like Criag mentioned. You'll save $$$ and your system will be just as good as the rest of the brand name bolt on systems you can buy brand new

Jap tuning companies make hundreds of variants of exhausts/resonators/rear mufflers and test them all for flow & power vs noise. They spend a considerable amount of time and money perfecting their exhausts. Subsequently Joe Blo from "X Exhausts" could never make you a 'custom' exhaust with the same flow, noise and character as a Jap tuning house.

So .... IMHO buy a 2nd hand cat-back system.

I have found that Aus made (like Flyn Performance) front/dump pipes are fine (had one on my S15), or there is an SAU forum trader that sells segregated ones (used to have one on my R34 - have now swapped to an HKS one as I upgraded my turbo). I have also found that X-Force or MetalCat (even better but more $$$) high flow cats work well.

Jap tuning companies make hundreds of variants of exhausts/resonators/rear mufflers and test them all for flow & power vs noise. They spend a considerable amount of time and money perfecting their exhausts. Subsequently Joe Blo from "X Exhausts" could never make you a 'custom' exhaust with the same flow, noise and character as a Jap tuning house.

good point!

Jap tuning companies make hundreds of variants of exhausts/resonators/rear mufflers and test them all for flow & power vs noise. They spend a considerable amount of time and money perfecting their exhausts. Subsequently Joe Blo from "X Exhausts" could never make you a 'custom' exhaust with the same flow, noise and character as a Jap tuning house.

So .... IMHO buy a 2nd hand cat-back system.

I have found that Aus made (like Flyn Performance) front/dump pipes are fine (had one on my S15), or there is an SAU forum trader that sells segregated ones (used to have one on my R34 - have now swapped to an HKS one as I upgraded my turbo). I have also found that X-Force or MetalCat (even better but more $$) high flow cats work well.

I have since last friday chucked a high flow cat

and it is damn good

its a X Force high flow cat off ebay

like whats been said already, go a 2nd hand jap brand cat back. all u really need is a 3" stainless to a muffler. then get a high flow cat and 3" dump/front pipe. done! thats basically what i got on mine and i love it. i paid a bit extra for stainless, but its got a different note and will last longer than mild steel. seeing i went a jap cat back, theres no droning or ricey fart cannon noise. and its relatively quite to get away from cops.

am performance would do you a really good deal on a full stainless system.

if not them then try ET. they can make you the whole thing. mate of mine got the flutes on a jun bl muffler with high flow cat and flex pipe for 1200 fitted and stainless and sounds nuts.

my next system is is going to be from am performance and was qutoed something like 500 cat back for a stainless system with a 500mm ress no mufflers as i already have a split hks dump pipe and decat pipe. will let you know how it goes :)

am performance would do you a really good deal on a full stainless system.

if not them then try ET. they can make you the whole thing. mate of mine got the flutes on a jun bl muffler with high flow cat and flex pipe for 1200 fitted and stainless and sounds nuts.

my next system is is going to be from am performance and was qutoed something like 500 cat back for a stainless system with a 500mm ress no mufflers as i already have a split hks dump pipe and decat pipe. will let you know how it goes :)

John's VR4? I f**king love those flutes he has. Sounds porn! I'm getting the same sort of setup for the GTR next month. Love flutes! Much better than a giant canon.

John's VR4? I f**king love those flutes he has. Sounds porn! I'm getting the same sort of setup for the GTR next month. Love flutes! Much better than a giant canon.

Ohh yes i love those flutes as well

does any one have a pic of the flutes on that VR4?

Please

all the pics i have of his car are from the front on and hes in germany at octoberfest atm so i wont see him till prob next year haha

but it gives the car a nice saloon style look. its a limited edition monty carlo vr4 in a dark charcole colour dumped with black drift teks and the flutes just set it off. so glad i talked him into them. he was abit iffy about them till he saw them on his car :P

Edited by Import S13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...