Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I recently destroyed my Garret GT30/71R (I think it sucked in a small dog or something).

Myturbo2.jpg

So instead of spending large amounts of cash rebuilding it, I am considering an upgrade...

I have the following mods done to my RB25DET:

- A'Pexi Power FC

- Splitfire coilpacks

- 550cc Sard injectors + 044 fuel pump

- Turbosmart Supersonic BOV

- JJR Front Mounted intercooler 300x600x76

- Trust Power Extreme ll 3" full exhaust

(I will also be installing a GReddy Profec B Spec ll boost controller)

Using the previous turbo the car made 240kw at the wheels, I would like to see it make 260 - 270kw on a safe tune.

I am looking for experienced peoples opinions on what turbo I should get.

I am also going to use the standard exhaust manifold so high mount and/or external gated turbos are out.

Any help will be much appreciated,

Thanks :)

In my original post I said that I am not looking for high mount and/or external gate... But thanks :P

sorry for my ignorance :P

well my friends R33 has a low mounted GT3040 on factory manifold and is making around 270kw at the wheels on around 1.3BAR with cams and PFC.

Edited by dmr
No problem :P

I didnt think that you could low mount a GT3040 (I thought that they were too big), but anyway... Would a turbo that size be very laggy? I dont have aftermarket cams in mine either.

no idea on how he got it to fit, he brought the car with the turbo previously installed. he gets full boost at around 5,500rpm.

i fit a TR43 (almost same size) on my RB20 low mounted. i had to grind back a millimeter of the manifold and rotate the turbo housings a couple degrees.

Edited by dmr
GT35... look below for my results...

I had my GT35 low mounted on my customised factory manifold...

if you want a big turbo it's a good choice...

Not bad at all, Im assuming that the GT35 is external gate?

no idea on how he got it to fit, he brought the car with the turbo previously installed. he gets full boost at around 5,500rpm.

i fit a TR43 (almost same size) on my RB20 low mounted. i had to grind back a millimeter of the manifold and rotate the turbo housings a couple degrees.

Sounds like it could be an option, I think I would prefer to have something a bit more responsive though. The GT3071 had almost no lag at all :P

going the hks route will be very expensice but the 2835 pro is great.

Garret is the way to go but to get that power with a good setup you will need a external wastegate as the internal setup doesn;t work so well with the garret turbo's.

So I recently destroyed my Garret GT30/71R (I think it sucked in a small dog or something).

Using the previous turbo the car made 240kw at the wheels, I would like to see it make 260 - 270kw on a safe tune.

The turbo you have should do that.

So just rebuild it, problem solved. If you CANT make that power something isnt right with the setup.

The 3071 is the perfect choice!

GT3540?

Why put a 700hp turbo on a car thats only after less than 450hp? stupid suggestion

In my original post I said that I am not looking for high mount and/or external gate... But thanks :P

You can actually get them with internal gates, no problem there... however again, its a dumb turbo choice as is a GT3040 even in the 500hp form (with the smaller comp wheel)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...