Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The orig poster is from Vic.

The Vic ruling is from Vehicle Standards Information - (VSI) #8

- The Exhaust outlet must not extend at least 40mm beyond the furthermost outboard or rearmost joint of the floorpan which is not continuously welded or permanently sealed. The outlet must not protrude beyond the perimeter of the vehicle when viewed in plan.

- If to the side of the vehicle, the outlet must discharge downwards at an angle to the horizontal of not less than 15 degrees nor more than 45 degrees and to the rear of any adjustable window or vent. If the vehicle is manufactured after 1988, the discharge must be on the right hand side of the vehicle.

hi again i am from vic and my car height is currently standard height

i do not plan on lowering the car but using a big body kit to make the car look lower than it is.

i will take a notch out of the side skirt wich will be a bit lower than the chassis

im quite handy at glassing and will be looking at modifiying the explosive side skirts that i have in my garage

again thanks for all your replies guys looks promising at this stage

Edited by r33rckt

following that the exhaust will have to exit on the right hand side of the car have you though about how you will route the exhaust?

keep in mind your turbo is on the left hand side of the car...

for street use its pretty pointless as it will reduce your ground clearance (to possibly illegal heights) and draw unwanted attention from the boys in blue.

also IMO cars with bodykits not lowered look just plain ridiculous

Edited by Phobic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...