Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well if you have ever heard of Autosalon, then you'd understand what the wheels would be for :/

Also i wasnt planning on driving on them like most people said and for 2300 bucks i wouldnt plan on buying them either, i just wanted to know if it was for one rim or not.

I was looking at 19" LMGT4's and the 20" TE37's caught my eye, for show use when i put my wide body n try entering it next year etc.

As for yur loling tell CGHOST R33 and the GHOST Skylines cars that are at Autosalon why they have 20"s on their cars or why anyone at any show changes their rims :wave: Too many people jump to conclusions here without actually helping out or contributing.

I have some decent/affordable 18x9's on my R34 coupled with 235 front and 265 rear Kuhmo ECSTA SPT's and they do the job damn well.

err... i actually lol'd @ gtst just being gtst...

Let the man do what he wants.

I mean its neither a practical rim nor does he want to use it as a practical rim.

Autosalon isn't particularly my cup of tea but if that's your thing go for it. Personally I rate it up there with people who build 'street' muscle cars and then tow them around on trailers to events. Kinda disgusts me.

And sh!t guys, in the end its his money for his purpose not ours.

All he wanted was some info on the price, not for a running commentary on how much of a dick they may make him look.

Edited by R33_Dude
agreed. Whats the point in putting massive ass wheels on skylines.

Just ends up ruining the handling and seems pointless

Thats what you think. If you have decent aftermarket suspension and have your camber and toe settings right Its no different to 17's or 18's, my car handles like a dream and turns on a dime. hardly understeers and very easy to control power oversteer.

I love the rim bashers on here, so full of shit.

As most people know I have 20" AMEs on my 32 and used to drive it daily to work and didn't have a issue

If the rim is a good quality rim (not a china special) you wont have an issue using them on the street.

Obviously for racing you would go smaller but for driving on the street and show rims size means f**k all

because you cant use the handling and performance of the car unless your driving like a tool.

I like the sort of VIP/USDM style that I'm going for thats why i put 20s on my car.

And now being 20x11 at the rear they really look insane.

Seriously just because someone doesn't like stock 16s like the rest of the stock brigade doesn't mean what they like is stupid or wrong

its time to grow up and respect other peoples ideas when they are actually trying to make an effort at doing things properly.

wow, didn't expect the thread to go into a full blown argument, but i do appreciate the people that have spoken on my behalf for my choice.

As for the rims, they are something i do wan to do when i get around to it, im just getting ideas now. And will check out the GT7's etc like people have suggested and obviously look into diff suspension set ups and cambers etc.

A minority of people on SAU have found out now that i have purchased a Cross - Factory Wide body front and rear fenders along with a bomex bodykit and have many "aero" parts such as hoods etc lying around ready to be fitted and painted. Since i have all the parts now and will be building putting it together. I will be moving on towards the performance side of my car.

Being that my car is N/A i have contacted Nissan and since then have undergone many calls, and enquiries as to purchase myself a RB26DETT N1 engine and GETRAG Tranny.

So my car wont just be a show pony, it will have some balls eventually too and that is my next goal. As for the people that have helped out and contributed (even the ones that just stated opinions) I will be posting a new thread called RB26+GETRAG (something along those lines) to get help on the performance side too.

So thanks for everything from the people that helped out and respect my ideas.

Ps. Yes i added you GTST to my friends because i did not take offence to your comment, and by replying i hope you didnt either to mine. Hence the request to make sure we are still on the same page, regardless of what rims we like :(

I have 20's

Handles the same as it did on 19's, 18's, 17's and 16's. Doesn't sit like a tractor with the right suspension.

Only downside is they're heavier and the tires are more expensive which is fine by me. When I need to, i swap back over to my 18's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...