Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought a VL wagon with an RB20 redtop motor installed with the intention to fit it into my sedan, I bought it from a bloke who could only get it to idle but for some reason blamed the AFM while at the same time ripping the fuel pump out etc leaving me a bit of work till I can get to the problem :ermm:

Oldmate reckons you could slowly feed up the revs but as soon as he stabbed the throttle quickly it would die out.

I have searched, all I could find was problems with coil-packs and rough idling etc.

I tend to agree with him on the AFM but there is a little prep work currently needed before I can start to look at the problem and I would like to have the motor running in the wagon before swapping it into my sedan but at the same time wanna get the wagon out of my shed quickly :P

I don't have any mates who have RB20 powered vehicles either so I can't exactly swap parts to suss it out ;)

Is this a common problem associated with the RB20's with an easy answer :)

Thankyou in advance, I am ofcourse a new member and I have half an idea but in this instance I am not wanting to waste cash given the circumstances ;)

Cheers, Cregga

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/
Share on other sites

As with any problem on a car, it could be many things. From the description, though, I would say the AFM is you most likely cause. That's not to say it couldn't be something else though.

Try testing the sensors with your multimeter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4195769
Share on other sites

The red-top is the early RB20. They have variable length runners, using a butterfly setup to switch between 2 sets of runners. That butterfly setup was prone to failure, so the engine would idle but not rev, or rev really well but idle crappy.

Other things to consider - dirty fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty CAS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4195921
Share on other sites

Thankyou for the kind replies, I appreciate your knowledge.

I don't exactly understand the variable length runners etc though and I am sure I will find out soon when I get some fuel up to the motor, it's on the back burner for a week or two because of a cam job I am doing on my brothers car >_<

I will get back to you when I have it back together and the turbo all booty-fabbed, I have a feeling he was also trying to run it without the intercooler or a cross-over pipe which imo would make sense with him saying he could slowly feed the revs to it but not stab the throttle.

Mystery bags suck :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4200704
Share on other sites

is it a ECCS or NICS red top?

Im with AFM too, sounds too similar to many a AFM drama.

Failing that, its a red-top mate... they have SOOO many electrical problems with sensors etc your better off replacing it with a silvertop, works out cheaper in the long run. Once you problem solve and replace 2-3 sensors (various ones love to die) you could have had a updated motor with better electrics etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4200723
Share on other sites

I don't exactly understand the variable length runners etc
The inlet manifold. You should notice that the inlet manifold appears to have 2 inlets per cylinder where it bolts to the cylinder head.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4201396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...