Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently had a RB25DE head rebuilt, ported and polished.

He didn't polish the Intake ports up much as its best to leave them a little rough.

He also did few other little bits inc. removing some material around the valves in order to help the gas enter/leave the comb chamber.

I wonder if it will lower the compression?!?

I've made the pics smaller they are around 50kb each.

Chris Milton Engineering concentrated on the exhaust ports so when I get some decent pics of the exhaust ports I'll post em'.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24026-the-rb25de-head-recoportpolish-pics/
Share on other sites

I'll be interested to see the exhaust ports :P

I've just ported my RB25DET head but apart from a bit of smoothing and polishing I left the the combustion chambers alone. I wonder how much benefit there is from de-shrouding the valves ?

They checked out the std valves and said they were in perfect condition so they didn't replace them. He said there was no wear on the valve stem.

It was worth just under $900. Chris had the best price and the most experience with these heads. I gave Adelaide Engine Developments a buzz and with slightly less work done they wanted $1100.

Bl4ck32 also had his head done at the same time so I guess it was a bit of a bulk job.

The head will be going on a 3ltr bottom end soon :P

Yer it was Freebaggin...

You are blowing heaps and heaps of black smoke...

You pulled out of the corner near lonsdale?

I was hoping you were going to give it some stick as I was in the mood, I had just ate a old VH V8 thing with stally that chiped third gear.

I was sitting at the lights behind him he was like laughing with this big smirk probably thinking haha your going to get your arse kicked .

He then stalled it up with his stally but wheel spun through first, he chirp second, I had to short shift second then pinned third pulled out and over took rather quickly with his reving in my ear I clicked fourth and then pulled in front. :P Good ol' RB's and 16psi.

He had a "Only wine comes in 2ltrs" blue sticker on the back window. It was pretty slow for how it idled (rather lumpy) and the stally and gear chirps i.e 2nd and 3rd.

Meggala,

At first I'm going to keep using the stock box until it dies.

It should be ok as the traction won't be there hence tyre width.

I'm going to keep running the 225 50's until I get the RB25DET box in there. Until then.. it will be wheel spin in 4th.. :P

Maybe.. Don't really know but should be fun anyhow.

I'm also going to keep the HD 30% Organic clutch. That will most probably die before the gearbox.

I'm also ditching the Chrome Molly Flywheel and am going to go a balanced std. RB25DET item. I'd rather have the heavier weight of a stock flywheel to absorb the vibrations + the RB20DET clutches are slightly smaller than the RB25DET. I think.. ;)

Yep, it's a rich mixture but has the power so I don't mind, Tim and Shaun's doing.

Good to see you blew that git away! Only have 2 points left on license so have to take it easy for a while.

Good luck with 3L!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...