Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a guy from Mandurah in my club.. or thinks hes in my club rather.. who has turbo'd his lancer gli.. he has an A-pillar gauge with TWO boost gauges.. I asked him 'why 2 boost gauges?'.. and his reply was '.. coz it makes it look like it's twin turbo!'.

I looked at him and walked off..

To cut a long story short imo, if you mod a lancer you run the risk of falling into the same category. But each to their own. I'm just saying it's not something I'd do. :P

is that lancer green?

if so i know the whole history of that car and he didnt turbo it - it used to be a show car

but to the OP, most will agree that it doesnt matter how much sugar you put on a piece of shit it will always be a piece of shit - but its your mates money so get him to do whatever makes him happy but im guessing he wont be happy for long if he is smart

Edited by fane
  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can't believe no one has suggested a pulsar :P

Get yourself a nice clean SR powered N14 or N15, spend your P plates on learning how to drive it properly and then boost tha mofo. Or don't, but they are a pretty quick car to start with (well, quicker than a stock lancer) and one of the most rewarding cars to mod I have ever come across.

Insurance is a HELL of a lot cheaper than a skyrine too.

Other than that, +1 to everything Dan said.

Ok lots of replies which i think are a little unjustified so I'll put my views up on the matter.

An N/A car is obviously going to be slower than a turbo guys but it doesn't automatically mean that its not worth modifying. There are different categories of racing and there is a reason for this. Alot of people are rocking N/A 4AGE Hachis, JDM Yard has an N/A K24A civic running an 11 ( i think, dont quote me on this but its either an 11 or low 12).

For your mate there are alot of options, EG civics are so damn cheap, as are CE lancers or even CC if he wants cheaper, an ae86 is always a fun and exciting option along with a KE70 which insurance is gonna cost next to nothing and so is the car.

If its his first car I wouldn't recommend getting a turbo car straight up anyway, i mean you could but you wont exactly be able to push the limits on the street without risking a hefty speeding fine.

I know people with modded lancers and there are both good and bad ones out there. I know a dude with a CE lancer dumped down on Tein coilovers, running 16x8 +4 super lights (yeah that offset isnt a typo), whos looking at doing a 6a12 mivec engine swap, for something different. His car corners faster than my skyline can ever dream of and on the street i struggle to keep up with him without breaking the speed limits. Thats a 1.5L SOHC CE Lancer. Sure in a straight line i destroy him but wheres the fun in that? Where is the driver skill in planting your foot? Theres a place in the world for small displacement NA cars, its just not on the drag strip.

Neons and big bodykits are a big nono to be honest, they really arent making your car go any faster (quite the opposite) and i personally just dont like the look of them.

13K is alot of money really, and he has a plethora of options available to him with the current car market, which i think everyone has noticed is dropping rapidly. Tell him to test drive a few cars to find one he likes because honestly its all up to the individual person.

I recon get a magna if he must have a mistubishi... That or go pulsar, or a Suzuki.

Lancers are a chicks or gays car.

I recon a dude driving a hot pink hydi's look lest sus than a guy driving a lancer.

Evo's ofcourse are the only exception.

Personally I'd prefer a lancer compared to alot of 33's i see running about these days.

Magnas are hard to find in manual and are way too much of a boat if the guy wants to learn how to really drive a car.

S14 Pulsar are ok but they are hampered by the fact they are in fact terribly ugly (my opinion), Swifts would be a good choice no argument there.

Hyundai's have possibly the worst connotations to them than any other car Ive heard of.

tell your friend if he does work...finance on a v35 or 350z na. when he does anything to it no one will say sh*t as long as its not over the top. then he/she will have the power and looks at the same time :(;)

there are heaps of riced up cars in the U.S just dont over do it in Aus.

Unless they die 24 hrs after ownership, eh Kel? :ninja:

The pulsar is pretty decent, not quick, but cheap and common. Not bad to work on one either, Ive just finished converting SN1P3R's from 1.6L carby auto to RB26... I mean 1.8L EFI manual. Easier then I thought it was going to be, honestly! And at only $500, why not?

Edited by NA_Goodness

ahahah that exa is hilarious. Back to the point lol, personally i think lancers with cosmetic styling is a bit lame, i always think you nob when i see them on the street and enjoy smoking em at the lights lol. If you put some cool but sublte (so not too over the top) rims and an exahst on it, it would be an alright p plater car. There are alot of NA jap cars out there other than lancers though. What about s13 Silvia NA, 33 NA, Integra, prelude, Civic hatch and even NA supras can be pretty cheap. Anyway there are my ideas and theres alot of others i didnt list. Lol btw i can understand about the insurance, mines 2500 a year myself lol, kinda sux but id never settle for a non turbo :D

^^ Agreed, but how could you do that to such a nice car? :D An EXA is ok because you cant make it any uglier... But an AE86?????

Why not buy an R33 GTS? They are definately not slow!! Was really fast when I first bourght mine. Sounds good, comfortable, very easy to live with.

I know a good one... 150,000kms... Rims, kit, lowered... Was at the Show and Shine on the weekend, so its a show car.

Interested? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...