Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3037 S uses standard exhaust manifold with custom HKS dump as will the 2835.

Will I loose much more bottom end with a GT-rs? as compared to 2835/3037

I would also like to know how much torque these various turbo's will produce (i have planned to install 260 degree poncams aswell)

Anyone know?

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if your interested in dragging, why would you even consider a gtrs?

im not a fan of them at all.

way to much money for way to little return.

my opinion only

on a stock bottom end 3037

on a built bottom end gt3582

im running the latter with poncams and i can see 5 psi at 2500rpm

but i can also sit on 100 kph in second gear being auto, floor it and instantly the tyres light up at 100 kph,

it changes into drive and the speedo goes of the clock. in around 2 seconds. (keeps the crowd happy)

a gtrs struggles to spin the wheels at all.

great turbo to have purchased.

I have one on my JZX81 1JZ-GTE. awsome torque and great power throughout the rev range.

Mine makes around 290+rwkw on 16psi.

Then again my engine has a few more toys inside and out.

Will be keeping an eye on your posts to see what you get out of it with Martins skills behind it.

Goodluck

Sry to side track your thread man but would like to know a bit more about 32 4whore's set up as im going for similar power figures. Like are you running standard internals?

  • 1 month later...

Got a retune yesterday by a well known member off this forum with a wideband and Datalogit now running 18psi and made 273.9rwkw on Aussies Dyno Hindmarsh today (previously 258 on their dyno). Cheers mate

Adrian, is that a suggestion to Lee to switch over to E85, or are you asking was the 273.9rwkw figure from switching to E85? My guess is the new power figure is still on 98RON petrol.

Lee, nice result. I bet the torque increase feels good too. Add another couple of psi, some mild (256-264 region) cams and you'll go close to 300.

Speaking of E85; I've got a new fuel rail (14mm o'ring - chromed and gleaming) a brand spankers set of 910cc Siemens and have just wired up some new connectors to suit. Now I just have to wait until the 06 Jan to tune it all. I don't think I'll need to upgrade injectors ever again. I started out with 780cc in mind, then decided to go for 870cc... then the 910's popped up.

Hi Matt

was just a suggestion,

are you going to do back to back testing still? If you dont mind me asking what did the custom rail and injectors set you back?

I need to think about an upgrade, at the moment my 740's have about 46 psi base and 50 psi when the pump steps up!

E85

Definately considering it Adrian.......After going for a ride in your beast it has got me thinking maybe in the new year we can sort it out with my current mods if your keen.

Adrian, is that a suggestion to Lee to switch over to E85, or are you asking was the 273.9rwkw figure from switching to E85? My guess is the new power figure is still on 98RON petrol.

Lee, nice result. I bet the torque increase feels good too. Add another couple of psi, some mild (256-264 region) cams and you'll go close to 300.

Speaking of E85; I've got a new fuel rail (14mm o'ring - chromed and gleaming) a brand spankers set of 910cc Siemens and have just wired up some new connectors to suit. Now I just have to wait until the 06 Jan to tune it all. I don't think I'll need to upgrade injectors ever again. I started out with 780cc in mind, then decided to go for 870cc... then the 910's popped up.

Still running BP Ultimate and Adrian is wanting to tune E85 (hence the post) in the old girl i'm just a bit put off with availability of the fuel at the moment

The torque has jumped from 6200 to 6800 tractive effort so definately a nice push in the back.

I may have not followed this thread properly but, has the block on Lee's car been cracked opened?

Has the head gasket been changed?

Still standard motor (unopened) running a nice safe tune.

Hi Matt

was just a suggestion,

are you going to do back to back testing still? If you dont mind me asking what did the custom rail and injectors set you back?

I need to think about an upgrade, at the moment my 740's have about 46 psi base and 50 psi when the pump steps up!

Hey mate. Cool, I was 99% sure that was the case.

That's still the plan.

The rail is a straight swap between another BW customer - he needed an 11mm top-feed and I a 14mm. Worked out nicely. My old rail usually retails for ~$250 from James at Nisspeed - comes in either 11 or 14mm. James has one of each sitting on the shelf, I saw them on Saturday (13th Dec).

The injectors came through a workshop owner mate of mine, he ordered them in for a customer and then they decided to go for 1000+cc stuff. He said ~$80-90ea, RRP is usually ~$100-120. I've had the injectors for a few days and I'm just about to go and give him the dollars now, so I'll find out the exact price shortly. Either way $100-120 isn't a bad price for a new top quality injector.

$250 for a rail, $600-720 x 6 injectors, and some fittings and fuel line and you're good to go, be it 400hp or 1000hp. A set of direct fit Sard/Nismo/HKS etc. Side-feed injectors may or may not be cheaper, depending on the AU-Yen exchange rate at the moment.

  • 4 weeks later...
I see you had some good results with E85 RB25DETS2.

323rwkw out of the .6 rear, std top end, std exh. manifold. Damn impressive. :)

Yeah thanks mate the thing is a completely different car. I would like to think that i had something to do with it but in reality 180or200 tuned the old girl and put me on to the fuel so he deserves all the credit. Very happy with it to say the least. Standard airbox also might be starting to choke it a bit.

Well done Lee & Adrian.

Can you list the mods that were required for the changeover?

Cheers Pete,

The only mod required was a decent fuel system to support the extra flow needed and a decent tune. I will be changing my Fuel filter after the first couple of tanks just incase it has picked up some crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...