Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts Clutch

Davyboy

By Davyboy,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Davyboy Enthusiast

Davyboy

Posted
Posted

This is what happened to my standard nissan clutch friction disk after a uhhhh 'need for speed' was required off the traffic lights......

Oops!! lol

DSCF0061.jpg

DSCF0063.jpg

DSCF0064.jpg

Notice there is no clutch material left.........

not recomended to boost a car with a standard clutch:)

Exedy or similar heavy duty is the way to go!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/
Share on other sites
NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

I think mine is going to look like that soon haha. Its not 100% atm. I reckon the owner in Jap Land abused it a bit. I'm about to put my first stage of mods on the car, so I don't think it will hold on too much longer. Gonna get one of the Excedy's in the near future. Hopefully it holds out till then :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4202907
Share on other sites
R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted
nothin on my old clutch in the rex... dont have pics tho ;), pretty much the plate had a crack right through the middle....

mechanic says he took it off and it fell apart!!

standard clutchs = gay

Standard clutch + Wrx = say no more lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4204676
Share on other sites
Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

i killed my extreme 9 puck in 2 years, pieces of junk, wore away the pressure plate and flywheel and clutch plate was fine . replaced it with a NPC 3 puck single plate with billet flywheel ( got for free after small stuff up). heaps better than the extreme.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4205935
Share on other sites
BOOOSTN Enthusiast

BOOOSTN

Posted
Posted (edited)

exedys are only good if u get a brass button

i got a hd exedy one and its shit house i hate it

lol to the wrx comment a brass button + stock wrx = bang bang gear box,i did my m8s a few months ago lol not happy

Edited by BOOOSTN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4207018
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

HD organic clutches are teh suck. I believe my clutch is the biggest, baddest single plate you can get and it gets mucho clutch drops aswell as putting along nicely in traffic. I must say it was a prick to drive with when I still had the RB20, but with the 3L torque it's a dream!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4207072
Share on other sites
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Interesting replies..

I bought my car with a single plate of some sort, had a very very heavy pedal. Used to spin off in second coming onto boost.

Installed an orc twin, expecting it to be a real pain to drive. Not at all. Pedal feel is light as practical, bite when new was very harsh but has gotten better with use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4212740
Share on other sites
BOOOSTN Enthusiast

BOOOSTN

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeah, brassy or a double is the way to go, my hd is sh*t would not reccomend one at all

my last vl i had a neo6 turbo in it and a brass button clutch with a detroit diff, man that was insane fun ;)

brasssy alll the way, may aswell if its only gunna be a extra 2-300 hundred bucks :down:

Edited by BOOOSTN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4213108
Share on other sites
ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted
Probably should take some pics of my xtreme 9-puck that was f****d, and the pressure plate which was possibly even more f****d :(
doing well to do that to a 9 puck mate!

would love some piccies :ermm:

I did the same - but that was after 80,000kms of pure abuse - any clutch will die if not treated right :(

i killed my extreme 9 puck in 2 years, pieces of junk, wore away the pressure plate and flywheel and clutch plate was fine .

Either you drive harder than I do, or you had a dodgy one Eric :) wow! 2 years only!

Standard clutch mate.

Think he was talking about the Xtreme 9puck :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4215425
Share on other sites
Ehgriez Mentor

Ehgriez

Posted
Posted

I never actually got to see the condition of mine when it came out, but i had to get it towed to the shop to get it done. When i tried to get the clutch to enagage black smoke came pouring out the back and it smelt somewhat like burning flesh.

I replaced the flywheel while i was at it:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240589-r33-gts-clutch/#findComment-4215777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...