Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I need some advise to do with the future of my car.

I'm trying to decide if I want to convert my NA or buy a GTSt. My plan is to upgrade most the parts on the GTSt anyway, so I'm thinking it'll be cheaper to work on the car I have.

My plan includes:

RB30DET engine

GT-R diff

GT-R brakes

Upgraded suspension

As well as everything else that goes with that. Its a pretty loose plan at the moment, but I'm slowly researching.

So... What do you guys think? Buy a GTSt and start off new? Or work with what I have now?

*Note* I want to get into modification mechanics, so it will be a good project for me either way.

Thanks

Rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240740-need-some-your-opinions/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys,

I need some advise to do with the future of my car.

I'm trying to decide if I want to convert my NA or buy a GTSt. My plan is to upgrade most the parts on the GTSt anyway, so I'm thinking it'll be cheaper to work on the car I have.

My plan includes:

RB30DET engine

GT-R diff

GT-R brakes

Upgraded suspension

As well as everything else that goes with that. Its a pretty loose plan at the moment, but I'm slowly researching.

So... What do you guys think? Buy a GTSt and start off new? Or work with what I have now?

*Note* I want to get into modification mechanics, so it will be a good project for me either way.

Thanks

Rhys

factor up costs, but I think you may have already awnsered your question :rofl:

Benson

I'd say convert, if you love that car.

I wouldn't think there'd be much point just bolting a turbo on your current engine, just cause of the different pistons, ect.

But building a RB30DET in your shed would be an awesome project!

But whats the chance of finding a car that has the same mods that I'm looking for? And will it be worth the extra $5k or so?

quite high... lots of r33 on the market man.

Uve been wanting to sell off ur car for a while now

i dont think u will b satisfied if u dont sell it lol.

build the motor the way you want to...

buy a different daily while this is in the garage getting built for two years...

while it's getting built, also save up for exterior and interior mods...

interior, well make the car a streetable track car or drifter, have all the gadgets and this and that stuff in it, look mint...

exterior, wickedly tidy awesome colour change spray job (you know now i can get you cheap paint and awesome quality)

and man you're done, with the bigger brakes and suspension etc. you'll need new rims anyway, more than likely go to 5 stud and you know i can find you a set of wheels too, you won't go through as many as i will though i don't think hahaha

do it man, will be awesome, i just want you to spray your car like a candy colour or something once the motor is done...

all show and all go

do it,

R E S P E C T LOL

^ in that budget in the meantime he's looking at a timebomb R32 GTR which is another unreliable option lol

you'll be a mechanic soon enough Rhys, only way to live is to learn ey, do all the stuff yourself too... you'll be way happier with yourself, learn a lot more than you could ever imagine and save heaps of money too!

Budget? Not exactly :rofl:

For some reason, an RB30DET powered GTSt is more appealing to me then a GT-R. Might be because of how rare they are, or because RWD is more fun then AWD (Refer to Wogan's old sig).

Andrew, you just read my mind. Except I think I'll do a windows out repsray, and include the engine bay and door sills.

Is that $20k including labour or just parts? I'm going to buy some blown engines to practice rebuilding before I give this one ago. Like I said, I want to get into the modification side of mechanics, so this will be good practice.

Now I'm waiting for Bubba to see this post and comment...

hmmm i wreckon conversion into the current car since u're changing so many parts ;) RB30 would be awesome ^_^ but buying a GTST is prob a good idea too cause u could pick one up for a real good price? lol but yeah i wreckon the RB30 would be the option :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...