Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there.

Been looking for information on Cefiros for a few weeks now and this seems to be the most informative forum out there (well, English speaking one at least!) so figured I'd sign up and join even though I'm in South Wales, UK, rather than Oz or NZ

I've just now started the process of bringing over a 1993 A31 Cefiro SE-4, it's one of the AWD variants (I believe it's based on the Skyline GTS-4) and currently has 28,000 KMs on the clock and an automatic gearbox, so I can be fairly sure no-one's been drifting in it! I intend to keep it (mostly) standard for a year or so, then try to convert it into a Skyline GT-R while keeping it as original looking as possible, though I wouldn't mind a set of Autech bumpers. Not sure how long the import company are going to take to bring it to the UK (it's currently still in Hokkaido) and get it ready for me.

Previous car was a 1999 Legacy (Liberty) B4-RSK that unfortunately had an engine failure that has taken it off the road. I mean that literally, it failed as I was going around a bend in the wet and the sudden cut-out sent me backwards through a hedge. I have a £350 bill from the Farmers Union of Wales here! Somehow I managed to convince the assessor the car was worth £7K so I'll be making a nice profit on this which will cover the massively increased insurance renewal :/

Here's some pictures from the dealership that's selling it:

cefiro__2.jpgcefiro__3.jpgcefiro__10.jpgcefiro__9.jpgcefiro__4.jpgcefiro__8.jpg

Can't wait for it to arrive. I'm currently driving a 1991 Volvo 940 2.0 GL that I picked up for £275. The only good thing I can say about that car is it's not FWD!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241021-newbie-from-the-uk/
Share on other sites

nice one... driven an SE4, and they're quite nippy. It misses out on the RWD ceffy's weight distribution though cos its a bit nose heavy (as are GTS4's I suppose). Watch out for the ABS though, had it fail on both my last GTR, and GTS4, and the SE4 I drove was prone to getting air bubbles in the system.

Other than that, a GTR/GTS4 gearbox, new rear diff to match the ratio of the front (auto diff ratio is different to the manual... unless you go the auto route) and RB26 should see it being quite the little sleeper.

Also from memory the late model ceffy's still ran non Consult based ECU's so you'll probably wanna transplant the wiring over from an R32 too.

nice one... driven an SE4, and they're quite nippy. It misses out on the RWD ceffy's weight distribution though cos its a bit nose heavy (as are GTS4's I suppose). Watch out for the ABS though, had it fail on both my last GTR, and GTS4, and the SE4 I drove was prone to getting air bubbles in the system.

Other than that, a GTR/GTS4 gearbox, new rear diff to match the ratio of the front (auto diff ratio is different to the manual... unless you go the auto route) and RB26 should see it being quite the little sleeper.

Also from memory the late model ceffy's still ran non Consult based ECU's so you'll probably wanna transplant the wiring over from an R32 too.

My Legacy was rather nose heavy too, what with Subaru hanging the engine out in front of the front axle. My GF used to complain about the understeer whenever she drove it (she has a 250bhp 200SX S13) so I should be ok with that. I'm probably going to be disappointed with having "only" 205bhp. From the looks of things a better exhaust ought to sort that out quite quickly.

Thanks for the advice, however I'm not too worried about the RB26 swap just yet. Yes I'm buying this car for it's upgrade potential but with a lovely own fault single vehicle accident on my insurance history for the next 3-5 years it's not going to happen. Right now no-one will cover me on a Skyline or a B4 RSK so I doubt they'll cover an RB26 swapped Ceffy.

Only other thing I want to do is get rid of that Nissan badge from the rear panel. It's always fun when no-one knows what your car is (very very few Ceffys in the UK and they're pretty much exclusively owned by drifters). Is the badge a sticker, or is it moulded in somehow?

If the ECU isn't Consult then what is it? I thought it would be the same as a GTS-4? Can I get any kind of useful diagnostics from it?

Oh, and are there any wiring diagrams for the Ceffy floating around? :/

Edit: Wait. You mention Auto and RB26! How much power can the Ceffy autobox take? I thought the Nissan boxes were limited to about 250bhp?

Edited by Lum

you can use an RB20DET auto box, providing you adjust for the different ratios, but you're right, they don't handle the extra power too well.

As for the ECU, i'm not sure if they changed in the series 2 , but the series 1 used the same ECU as the R31.

I'll have to wait until I see it for the ECU I think. I don't think there are many SE-4s outside Japan anyway since you can't drift them.

Is there any way to make that autobox handle the power from an RB26. I like the idea of an automatic GT-R as I do a lot of long distance work, and from time to time I end up in 3 hours of stop-start traffic (UK people: I'm refering to the M6), it was causing me to get RSI in my left foot!

Isn't it the same autobox as the S13?

I think the first job is going to be to find some nicer wheels, which will be difficult, with the chrome on that car I should really get wheels of a matching colour, but I can't quite bring myself to have chrome wheels. That said these ones look nice in "shining silver".

What's the best size & offset to get anyway? 17x7.5? I don't want to do tyre stretching or flare / cut / roll the arches.

Edited by Lum

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...