Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Okay long story short I toke off the head to get reco'd and the time it was away the water gallery’s got rusty on the block so when I bolted it up I had rust residue in my coolant.

My question is how do I go about cleaning it/flushing it out???

cheers

bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241030-how-do-i-flush-out-coolant/
Share on other sites

Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and use a hose to flush water back and forth through the block, using both radiator hoses. Keep at it til she runs clear then let it sit for a while draining out the water so you're not diluting your coolant mix too much when it goes back in. I can't remember if the thermostat blocks the water flow extensively in the RB25 as it's been ages since I had one. Just see how you go. If you're going from the thermostat side and the water ain't coming out the other pipe then you may need to remove the thermostat also. Good chance to do the radiator at the same time. For a quick confirmation, give a local radiator/coolant specialist a buzz and make sure you're happy with the direction you're going to take. It's your car in the end.

Good luck :)

So long as you put the right mix of coolant back in and there's no leaks you should be fine. If any of the internal galleries or the radiator etc have suffered badly from rust then you may have some rust still in the system but the coolant should keep it in check. If in a few weeks after refilling with coolant the fluid goes brown again you may need to flush it all fully again.

Do it the first time and see how you go.

plenty of additives you can add to the cooling system, run it for half and hour then dump it, flush it and refill with new coolant. just have a look at the local parts place. repco, bursons etc.

there is a drain under the turbo you can undo, but it is a bitch of a spot.

my advise, remove thermostat housing and thermostat when you want to flush it with the hose, otherwise the thermostat will block the water from draining out.

other option is to pop off a heater hose at back of engine.

whatever is easiest really.

Just make sure you 'reverse flush' the system. i.e. flush it in the opposite direction the water normally flows. And make sure you reverse flush the radiator, block and heater core separately to avoid cross contamination. Personally i think a flush gun is a must.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...