Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest jumney1

Hi everybody and greetings from sunny (I wish) England!!!

Ok, I have an imported 1993 R33 GTS-t and have had dosme problems as of last week. Driving along at about 100 - 110mph (160ish KPH) and all running smoothly, just as it happens I need to check my tyre pressure and fuel up so I pull into the petrol station.

TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP

There is a definate and very loud tap/click/knock type noise seemingly coming from the top of the engine. Immediately I switched off and called for a rescue.

Today I took the cam covers off, expecting to find a cam lob damaged or something. But nothing!!!!

The only thing I noticed was when I was turning the engine over (spark plugs out etc) and watching the cams.

The lobe which controls the front inlet valve on cylinder 6 (nearest to firewall) seems to have lots of oil on it as it spins?!?!?!?!

I'm assuming this means the lifter is not returning to its correct position and as such is not scraping the oil off???

I have just sourced a set of R33 GTR cams and would like to fit them.

Anybody done this??

Any advice??

Anybody know what parts would be required??

Any problems??

Thankyou all in advance

Jay

(PS. Definately the best Skyline board worldwide, only had mine 2 weeks so I look forward to lots of friendly advice :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24138-urgent-cam-issue/
Share on other sites

If the inlet valve is closing, and the engine otherwise runs normally, It sounds like the hydraulic lifter may have collapsed. It cannot now maintain internal oil pressure for some reason and pump up to maintain zero cam/follower clearance.

If the engine is only running on five cylinders, you might have either a bent valve, which can no longer close, or broken a valve spring (unlikely).

GTST cams have 240 degrees duration, and GTR cams have 240 inlet, 236 exhaust duration, but slightly more lift and very slightly more aggressive profiles. What the GTR cams do have though, are long clearance ramps at valve opening and closing to take up mechanical clearance of the GTRs solid lifters.

These clearance ramps hold the valves open a minute amount during valve overlap (if you keep hydraulic lifters) giving a lumpy idle. The result is, you will get a distinctive cammy idle that will sound either wonderful, or terrible depending on how you feel about it.

The slightly faster opening and closing, and lift, will give you about 2Kw extra power flat out. If you got the cams free and fit them yourself, go ahead. If you bought the cams, and have to pay to have them fitted, you will have spent a lot of money for no performance gain.

To do it properly you need to remove the cylinder head and fit the solid lifters which need to be adjusted with shims. This can only be done with the head removed. A very expensive operation to have done, and there will still be no performance gain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24138-urgent-cam-issue/#findComment-516602
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...