Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket Radiator And Oil Cooler For R33

seraphyn_r33

By seraphyn_r33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

seraphyn_r33 Proficient

seraphyn_r33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Have been thinking about getting my car on to the track and two questions are burning a whole in my mind.

number 1 - is it worth replacing the stock radiator??

My car makes about 205 rwkws @ 13psi, so its not hugely modified, yet its not stock either. I have been looking at the cooling pro radiators from just jap which are alloy and 60mm thick. They retain the factory shroud and id just be using the stock clutch fan.

Do these perform much better if at all than the stock r33 radiator?? and also is it even worth replacing in the first place? as my stock radiator works perfectly fine to my knowledge anyway. i just dont want the car overheating.

and question 2 - oil coolers.

i have been looking at the cooling pro ones once again from just jap, they seem like pretty decent quality?? (one of the 11 bar kits including filter relocation)

Also since i have bugger all tools at my disposal at the moment, how much would you imagine it would cost for someone to fit an oil cooler for an r33 series 1??

my car is 95% a daily driver, im thinking about having a few spurts on the track when the oppurtunities arise, i really just want piece of mind about the temps in the engine bay if i do a few hot laps.

seraphyn_r33 Proficient

seraphyn_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

same kinda deal with the oil cooler??? any money i can save will be going towards a turbs upgrade and coilovers as well :D:(

i guess best bet may as well be just bomb it round the track a few laps and see how high temps get. next track day around my way is in december, so the hot weather will really test it!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Oil cooler is good to get.

Are you running the stock turbo @ 13psi? If so, for track you really need to back it off.

Otherwise you will kill it just due to the heat that track brings, the rear wheel wont take it for long at all.

Some people's have died on their first track day out :D

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
Oil cooler is good to get.

Are you running the stock turbo @ 13psi? If so, for track you really need to back it off.

Otherwise you will kill it just due to the heat that track brings, the rear wheel wont take it for long at all.

Some people's have died on their first track day out :/

What are the temps of the oil that people reach out on the track?? I personally have never seen over 88degrees in my car.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Higher than 88 thats for sure.

10-20mins on a track sprint is nothing compared to even a spirited squirt on the street...

Given brakes probably wont last more than 3-5 laps before requiring a 'easy' lap or two before getting up it again...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...