Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i havestill got it set on stock boost, and its now backfiringand around 4500 rpm. Its not really loud but its enough to make the car feel like its surging. I have a bosch 040 fuel pump, i run it on mobile fuel. Premium stuff.

I also got the oil to air seperator installed. Now for this, the hose which normally runs from the cam cover into theinduction hose, has been blocked off. Now when starting the car up, it goes to about 700 rpm then drops down to where its about to stall then back up to about 500 rpm. And it sounds like it is idling really low. When oil to air seperators are used do people still keep the air circulating into the rubber induction hose? (its goes in just before the turbo)

And secondly i am going to install the plumb back Bov back on. For this to work it has to be as close to the throttle body as possible. In my case that is going to mean it will be on the otherside of the engine bay to where its going to have to be plumbed into.

Cause i have the front facing plenum. So do i have to run a really really long hose into the rubber induction pipe inbetween the air flow metre and turbo? or can i plumb it in somewhere else.

At the moment the rubber hose that used to go onto the crossover pipe, is being sent to the rubber induction pipe. This hose comes from the back of the plenum....

should this hose that i have sent to the induction pipe be going into the cooler piping, before the throttle body? and then run the plumb back bov to the induction hose instead?

its a little confusing, so many hoses can effect how the car revs, idles, etc.

This could be the cause of the backfiring aswell.

if someone could take the time to point me in the right direction it would be good. E.g someone with a front facing plenum, and a plumb back bov?

thanks

p.s

for an rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24259-backfiring-on-stock-boost/
Share on other sites

for anyone who has been bothered to read my long boring post....

i have done a search and have come across guys with the problems. Most people are talking about air flow metres, fuel cut, boost cut, needing an safc, or even a aftermarket ecu....

i am a bit confused about it all now.

one more thing, i also have the hose from actuator going up to the plenum. I dont have it plumbed into the cooler piping like from factory..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...