Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, recently my Non-turbo R33 has been rattling @ 3000 rpm.. only.

I'm really unsure what it is but sounds really bad going to have to take it to the mechanic next week when i have time off work.

Anyone know what it is and how much it'll cost to fix it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242757-r33-makes-really-bad-rattle-3k-rpm/
Share on other sites

Get a good brand cat back.

No supercheap shit.

No Generic mufflers

No X-force

And yes. It will fix the problem

A Cat - back is a PIECE Of the exhaust yeah? If i may ask, how many parts are there? I know theres the catalytic converter & the muffler which is the end tip of it..

whats a good brand cat back ? and price im looking at is a few hundred, nothing too fancy..

sry im a nubie. so basically. getting a CATBACK for my car will fix the problem, i have also gotten a new muffler & a catalytic converter so its not that yeah..

p.s natho, can't a kid learn about cars? guess u know every pucking thing about cars u nerd.

Edited by Awesome

hey there mate. how to put it simply?

when someone says 'catback exhaust' what they are referring to is the exhaust section from the catalytic converter onwards (i.e. back) so from the cat to the back of the car.

a full exhaust system comprises of: headers (also known as extractors), possibly a connecting pipe depending on design, catalytic converter, maybe another connecting pipe, then followed by a muffler system.

ok the sound at 3,000rpm appears to be a twin cam, 6 cylinder harmonics or something (i'm not 100% sure on this). however i have heard similar sounds on many twin cam, inline 6 or v6 engines.

i had it on my stock system and i also have it on my r33 gtr exhaust which i have installed onto my r33 gts. it's a matter of trial and error i know people who have bolted on aftermarket exhaust systems and still had the rattle. the type of exhaust material also plays a part into the muffling or dampening of the sound.

a wild guess here, but a light stainless steel or titanium exhaust will "ring" and transfer the harmonics and/or sound much more than an exhaust system constructed of mild steel.

the sound annoys me a lot too! but sound doesn't equal performance so it's low on my list of things to do.

p.s. - yes a kid can learn about cars! have a google around and do some reading around the past threads in the forum, there's a myriad of information just waiting to be searched. i can assure you that 90% of your questions have already been answered before. if not feel free to ask away like you have done so here. hope that helps!

Thanks for your reply EUG.

The only thing i don't understand is how i got my MUFFLER And my Catalytic Converter REPLACED and it still hasnt fixxed the problem.

So far i believe the "catbacK" is the WHOLE Exhaust pipe thing including the muffler& (NOT INCLUDING catalytic converter)..? please confirm.

Now, if thats true, why don't people just say exhaust.. Why do they say 'cat back' i'm sorry for being n00b.

one last thing, all i want to know is what i need for it to be FIXXED. Which part..

Edited by Awesome

what are the brands of muffler and cat???

like Eug said do you know if you have stainless steel because it will make it resonate. if you want to get rid of this you will have to completely change you cat back system

a 2.5" system will restrict it resonating and you also said in another thread the comparison of twin tip and single. Varex defiantly wont fix this problem because its not a great brand (x-force) the best thing (and what i do) is PM people with the problem by searching forums and ask if they have fixed it and how because i dont know what brands will help with this as its a characteristic with the car.

judging by the searches ive done people are saying rattling and all symptoms sound the same but ive read one fixed with coil packs, the others a new cat and some bearings. auto or mannual they all seem to get it so im going to say its not a gearbox problem. Im lost for ideas, when mine is up and running ill get my uncle to see what it is if no one finds a solution. hes like my master sensay :P haha

Edited by central coast person
sounds like from the exhaust to me.. :|

Just thought I'd check, as to me, when someone says "it's rattling at 3000RPM" I'd be thinking "OH god, engine is on it's way out and knocking"

But if it's from the exhaust, and you're sure it's the exhaust note sounding "rattly" then that's all good.

Just thought I'd check, as to me, when someone says "it's rattling at 3000RPM" I'd be thinking "OH god, engine is on it's way out and knocking"

But if it's from the exhaust, and you're sure it's the exhaust note sounding "rattly" then that's all good.

engines go "tick, tick, tick" the bottle even says for noisy lifters :P haha

i doubt its the engine because i have mine out of my car at the moment and everything is being upgraded so we have taken every single piece of my engine apart and reconditioned it and all the components like seats and lifters and valves, ect are being re used so the top end wasnt the problem for noise. Main and Con rod bearings do make a metallic chattering sound when dieing..............again once my engine is together ill see if that solved my problem but it didnt sound like it was the engine it was around the gearbox and id expect the lights to come on once the engine is dieing and making noise like that.

I think people are throwing the wrong words around.

“Resonating” and “Rattling” are not interchangeable.

To resonate means that a vibration of large amplitude in a mechanical system caused by a relatively small stimulus so as the vibration is amplified. Essentially.

And we all know what a “rattle” is. So a completely different symptom.

I personally had the same problem. I replaced my stock catback with a 3” Nismo Catback

I Have heard of other that have stopped it too with a new exhaust.

As explained in the thread i posted. In the later R33's they had a butterfly that stayed closed at lower throttle imputs to lessen the severity of the metallic resonating.

how-exhausts-work_large.jpg

This may help. A "Catback" exhaust is from the catalytic converter to the exhaust tip.

I'M GOING TO BUY THIS ...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...st-t242143.html

or

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/3-...st-t230324.html

WILL IT FIT MY R33?

& WILL IT FIX THE PROBLEM.

& which one SHOULD I BUY??

WHICH ONE IS BETTER/LEGAL/LOUDER.

THE 2ND ONE STATES ITS CUSTOM.." WILL IT FIT MY CAR??"

P.S THE SOUND IS LIKE RESONATING.... THE EXHAUST DOES VIBRATE AND DOES DISPATCH A VERY LOUD SOUND. SO I GUESS ITS NOT A 'RATTLE'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...