Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

its actually Chris Milton of adelaide engine developments, and yes he has just meta-laxed an n1 block and heads, pistons ,rods etc? for me and assembled it to formula1 tolerances, and he has told me i can rev it to 11000rpm it is an rb26 still and produce around 1100hp. all was rather cheap as i am good friends with his son Sam.below is a photo

oh the spl t51 should be ok or i may have to look at a t88 but i dont want too much lag.,.....

i wholly recommend chris milton as an engine builder

post-23901-1226304876_thumb.jpg

chris and sam know their shit, they just finished my N1 motor, good for 1100kw.

thats a s#&tload of grunt! Is it for track, drag or.......... street?? :P

on a side note, i'm aiming for a reliable 600-700hp

I was planning on using the tomei sump baffle kit, wanting the best protection for the motor.

I've read on here that some members use an extended sump with baffles, should I be doing the same ? Or is this just overkill?

thats a s#&tload of grunt! Is it for track, drag or.......... street?? :P

on a side note, i'm aiming for a reliable 600-700hp

I was planning on using the tomei sump baffle kit, wanting the best protection for the motor.

I've read on here that some members use an extended sump with baffles, should I be doing the same ? Or is this just overkill?

no definately go the baffle and also get a tomei oil restrictor fitted to the block just some extra insurance rb's dont EVER like being starved of bearing oil. they hold alot of oil in the heads when revved hard.

its actually Chris Milton of adelaide engine developments, and yes he has just meta-laxed an n1 block and heads, pistons ,rods etc? for me and assembled it to formula1 tolerances, and he has told me i can rev it to 11000rpm it is an rb26 still and produce around 1100hp. all was rather cheap as i am good friends with his son Sam.below is a photo

oh the spl t51 should be ok or i may have to look at a t88 but i dont want too much lag.,.....

i wholly recommend chris milton as an engine builder

F1's rev to 20,000 rpm.

51's will still have plenty of lag on a 2.6.........did you consider going 2.8 or even 3.0 litre, more cubes = less lag.

what bottom end and sump setup you running that can handle 1500hp?

F1's rev to 20,000 rpm.

51's will still have plenty of lag on a 2.6.........did you consider going 2.8 or even 3.0 litre, more cubes = less lag.

what bottom end and sump setup you running that can handle 1500hp?

yes i did consider an rb30 but i want it to scream, i will most probably settle for a Garrett 3037 pro(No smaller) thats about 800hp with 80mm gates ,my r34 gtr has hks gt-rs' and that pulled 343kw on willal's dyno but i cant rev it too hard 8500rpm on standard motor with 270 cams and injectors, power fc and boost kit with z32 Afm's . with my 32gtr I want heaps of mid range all the way to 11grand, i wonder what that will feel like on mallala's twisty turn 1. in a 1200kg r32 GTR, i spose the motor might last a little while longer with less power ,but you're right the 51's will be lag monsters, its really a tough choice, any suggestions?

dry sump for sure.

Edited by ax53b70p25
yes i did consider an rb30 but i want it to scream, i will most probably settle for a Garrett 3037 pro(No smaller) thats about 800hp with 80mm gates ,my r34 gtr has hks gt-rs' and that pulled 343kw on willal's dyno but i cant rev it too hard 8500rpm on standard motor with 270 cams and injectors, power fc and boost kit with z32 Afm's . with my 32gtr I want heaps of mid range all the way to 11grand, i wonder what that will feel like on mallala's twisty turn 1. in a 1200kg r32 GTR, i spose the motor might last a little while longer with less power ,but you're right the 51's will be lag monsters, its really a tough choice, any suggestions?

dry sump for sure.

yep, check this............unless you're interested in straight out drag racing alone, this may be a better solution for the street over a 51 or especially an 88, lol

Monster Twin Setup

thanks, will call them monday.

Not sure, but some quotes i've been given were astronomical!

What price is astronomical?? Has the engine actually given up yet...

Also consider putting a sump baffle in and the oil restictor in the head like the others said.

Have they told you what brand bearings,pistons,rods they like to use in the quotes?

I would source all your own parts like dangerman 4 said..and would want to see them going in the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...