Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if u r just pulling the old box out and replacing with a new its just straight forward . drop one out lift other up bolt on and way u go . if u r going to change the clutch at the same time then u have to line the clutch up , if u want to do that let me know and i'll post for u .as long as u know the basic stuff , undo tail shaft all bellhousing bolts including starter , slave , unplug wiring , take the gearstick out , i think that covers it as u have a push clutch it will come out no probs . r33 with pull clutch is a different story .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24331-gearboxes/#findComment-519693
Share on other sites

thats what i said before if u want to pull the clutch out ( good idea while the box is down ) to inspect and maybe change it if half or more worn then u have to line it up so u can put the box back up .if u dont line it up the box will never go back .once u have the box down undo all the bolts that hold the clutch assembly and pull the clutch pressure plate off . have a look at the clutch plate for wear and if 1/2 worn u need to get a clutch kit ( new clutch plate , new or rebuild pressure plate , new thrust bearing and a new spiggot bush or bearing ( not sure if ur car has bush or bearing ). i would take the flywheel off and get it machined ( 30-40 $ ). install the spiggot then flywheel ( i always use locktite on the bolts ) then the pressure plate with clutch ( make sure u put the clutch plate the right way )use locktite on the pressure plate bolts . before u do the pressure plate tight u line up the spine of the clutch plate to make sure its in the middle its got to be spot on ( u can buy a tool to do that ) i have old g/box input shafts to line up my clutches . as long as its lining up when u lift the g/box up threre it will go in u just turn the box left to right a little so spline of the shaft doesnt hit the clutch spline and u r sweet .if it doesnt line up it wont go cause the pressure plate presses the clutch plate hard and it wont move . i hope it this helps u , by the way u r lucky it has a push clutch and not a pull one .

as for machining the flywheel have a look if it hasnt got burn marks ( if u drive like a grany it may not ) then dont worry but i always do it .

if got another clutch with the new box that u r instaling check it out if nearly new use it if not dont risk it . u can get a new clutch kit for u r car for 200 - 250 ( stock )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24331-gearboxes/#findComment-520639
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...