Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Im looking at a set of falken RT615 tyres for my 300+rwkw 350z.

they are going to be 265/35/18 all around on my 9.5 and 10.5 rims

I am 'upgrading' from kumho escta KU31's

Are these tyres decent for daily driving and are they semi decent on the track.

I was happy with the grip from the kumho's but i need to replace the tyres anyway and the price difference is next to nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/
Share on other sites

they are a compromise... they are fine for the street, low noise and good in the wet... but they have very stiff sidewalls which can make for an uncomfortable ride and they wear much quicker than a regular tire... on the track they are fine but go off quickly and get very greasy, there are much faster track tires out there... motorkhanas are where I found them to be at their best as they heat up quickly and are very predictable

mind you I just replaced a set of these 255/17 with a set of Hankook Ventus K107's in 235/18 and although the RT615's were basically bald the Ventus grip much better and were much cheaper... I won't be getting the RT615's again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4241822
Share on other sites

Hello,

Im looking at a set of falken RT615 tyres for my 300+rwkw 350z.

they are going to be 265/35/18 all around on my 9.5 and 10.5 rims

I am 'upgrading' from kumho escta KU31's

Are these tyres decent for daily driving and are they semi decent on the track.

I was happy with the grip from the kumho's but i need to replace the tyres anyway and the price difference is next to nothing.

you are pretty spot on. they are acceptable for daily use and 'semi decent on track'. be aware their compound is not super sticky like a proper semi slick track tyre but the stiff sidewalls means you still get the feel of a semi slick (just not the outright grip). they can certainly handle some decent laps, and whilst the grip will drop a bit after a few laps they wont feather or get chunks taken out like street tyres do when pushed on track (ie track use wont wreck them, which it will to regular road tyres). and their design means they don't walk around on the tread blocks like road tyres do under hard cornering so you get good feel.

for daily use the negatives will be stiffer sidewalls wont give as soft a ride as more comfort spec street tyres, and they will wear more quickly (but no where near as quick as a semi slick) and you will most likely get some tramlining (quite common once you get big wide tyres anyway).

I reckon they are quite a good compromise tyre for 90% street 10% track for the guy who doesn't want to bother with 2 sets of tyres and rims.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4241895
Share on other sites

Not real happy with my Azensis either, i have 255/40/17. It won't hold down 275rwkw in the dry in second gear so pretty much useless. I previously had Toyo RA1's and they where so much better on the road, didnt last long but the grip was much better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4241926
Share on other sites

Ive got mine on at the moment...Im trying to "get ride of them". I only bought them cause they were the only tyre I could use in superlap back in July.

On the freeway at 110kms they are actually quite loud...

When they are cold also, they arent good, so drive as sedately as you can (as you should when everythings cold with the car! haha)

The only thing I can think they are really good with, as Nick said motorkhana's!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4243254
Share on other sites

mind you I just replaced a set of these 255/17 with a set of Hankook Ventus K107's in 235/18 and although the RT615's were basically bald the Ventus grip much better and were much cheaper... I won't be getting the RT615's again

Bald as in worn, or bald as in not many grooves?

I really liked my RT215s, but I've heard from people who've used both that the RT615s are not as good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4243853
Share on other sites

bald as in worn, well past the indicators

funnily enough I bought a set of wheels with 215's on the front and 615's on the back and when I wore the tires down I replaced them with 615's all round... only to find I had less front grip... :P

I really like the 'feel' of the Azenis but that's about it, now I'm making some power they just don't grip like they should (for the money/wear rate)

Edit: I should add, they are great fun to slide on though... I would guess that drifters with bulk $$$ would love to run them as a drift tire

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4244660
Share on other sites

I've heard the RT215s have more grip than the RT615s. The UTQG for the 615s is higher, which says something.

Still, if you're comparing it to your typical "lots of grooves" street radial, the RT615s are still a very grippy tyre. They're just not the same bargain S-Comp they used to be. Especially since there's actual competition now, from Bridgestone, Federal and Nitto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4246085
Share on other sites

I just ordered a set of RT615s. Kumho's KU36s aren't in the country yet, and I don't want to go much lower in UTQG than 180 since they're street tyres and I'm not overburdened with power.

We'll see how they go.

Hey Alan, I guess its too late for you but for the benefit of others, ABC Tyrepower on Botany road in Roseberry had a set of 235/45/17 KU-36s sitting in their shop for the last few weeks, not sure if they can get more stock right now but worth trying them. They were cheap to at approx $190 fitted per corner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4255913
Share on other sites

Not an appropriate size for me, unfortunately.

I've order RT615s in 255/40R18 and 275/35 R18. My rear FK452s are still in great nick so I'll just bag them up, and pop them on when these wear out.

Tempted to see if they have anything slightly narrower, as the woman's car needs tyres after she munched hers at a couple of skidpans and track days.

Edited by scathing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4257733
Share on other sites

Alan, will you'll be using them as a daily tyre?

Would be interesting to see if you use them at the track, and what times you will get.

Out of interest, whats your best time on street tyres vs semi's at wakie?

I know your quick! Would be good to see a comparison to what you have used previously!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4259541
Share on other sites

Daily tyre. My mileage is going to drop now, so I'm happy for the extra grip. My RT215s on my old 17" TE37s lasted me 20,000km so that's good enough, considering the RT615s are a harder tyre. I will continue to avoid tracking my daily tyres, and either run R-Comps or the Nankangs.

My fastest on RE55S is a 1:10.2 on a damp track in winter, but that was after I did a lot of track days in a short period so I had lots of current experience. My fastest on Nankang NS2's is 1:13.something in winter, but I only got half a day before I shat 3rd gear and I know I wasn't driving at my best.

I haven't used decent street tyres on the track in at least 2 years, so those times aren't indicative anymore.

Now that the car is in working order again, I'm looking at trying to set a new Nankang time. And finally break into the 1:09s on semis.....once I can afford new ones.

Edited by scathing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4259844
Share on other sites

Hey does anyone know how much these RT615's would be in a 255x40x17 and 235x45x17. Ball park prices would be ok; it just past 5 and all the tyre places arent answering for quotes! Dont really want to spend more than $250 each.

Cheers,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4261311
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what UTQG the 615's have? Their website doesnt list it.

MrKotter, are you using them as an everyday street tyre? Im pretty keen to know more about these.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4262336
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what UTQG the 615's have? Their website doesnt list it.

MrKotter, are you using them as an everyday street tyre? Im pretty keen to know more about these.

IIRC its 180 or maybe 200. I use them as everyday street tyre because i dont have anywhere to store a second set of rims. The only problem i have is the tramlining, but i havent asked for a re-alignment to see if that can be dialled out. I either dont care or havent noticed any noise or comfort problems. My suspension is shockingly rough...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4262677
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what UTQG the 615's have? Their website doesnt list it.

Your average Australian doesn't really seem to get into UTQG data for some reason, so they don't publish it. The US site (www.falkentire.com) has the UTQG data for all of their tyres, and the RT615 is 200.

That puts it a bit higher than the RT215s (at 180) and significantly higher than the Bridgestone RE-01Rs and Federal 595RS' (at 140), let alone proper R-Comps that have sub-100 UTQGs.

In the end, I made a conscious choice to go for them as they do have a reasonably high wear rating. They'll grip well enough for street use (I save my hard driving for the track these days) so I'll take the tyre life over ultimate grip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243379-falken-rt615/#findComment-4264279
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...