Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rodger turned up with all his gear and he spent from 9am till past 6pm on my car..

the paintwork had been washed by idiots during the life of the car so it had a huge

amount of spider web scratching all over, and a few deeper scratches to boot.

The results were amazing, as he said, "better than new".

Check it out..

lightbox: (maximise your window!)

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/6474695_bC3...4137_WadMJ-A-LB

gallery:

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/6474695_bC3...410873675_sDvNw

He charged $450 which yeah it is steep, but he knows his stuff and gave the car

more attention than we expected it would need at the outset, so I think I got a

break on the price given the hours he spent. All the trim was taped up first, he

removed the spoiler. The whole nine yards.

http://www.directautodetailing.com.au/

if you use him tell him you saw the black skyline on SAU. I don't get any benefit from

this, just want to thank him for the work.

thats good. so please tell the work that he did from 9 am to 6pm? detailed with black paint and a brush? few layers of cream plus a couple buffs? did you have any scratches on your car down to the metal or were all the "spiderweb" scratches just in the layer of clear on top of the paint?

cheers

thats good. so please tell the work that he did from 9 am to 6pm? detailed with black paint and a brush? few layers of cream plus a couple buffs? did you have any scratches on your car down to the metal or were all the "spiderweb" scratches just in the layer of clear on top of the paint?

cheers

No black paint..

I'm summarizing but basically wash with new microfiber, then rinse, then clay bar,

then re-wash and re-rinse, then tape up all the trim, then use Xpert 1000 ultra polish

then Xpert 1500 polish, then machine pad glaze, then hand Xpert titanium paint sealant

and finally a carnuba wax. Somewhere in here obviously also interior, tires and alloys,

oh and all the glass which was fairly well covered with the usual plastics out-gassing haze..

its a lot of different chemicals towels, waxes and pads. hard to justify the expense of

doing this oneself because of all the crap you have to buy, including the high power light

rig etc. I like washing my own car as much as anyone, and can stretch to a wash and a

couple of layers of wax on a lazy afternoon -- but not further than that.

pics were taken in maroubra ..

  • 2 weeks later...

I do believe the base charge was $110! Well worth it in my opinion, do you see how shiny the damn brace is haha. Anyways he charged me extra due to the call out since I do live quite far away but I still was damn happy with the job and will call him to do the rest of my car.

http://www.directautodetailing.com.au/

Thats the website with all the details of his service.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...