Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry, full circular divider?? Its a full split dump, so two pipes, which use a half inset moon on either side devider.... did that make any sense at all??? LOL

Mine is the same as this except in stainless:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/madwob/IMG_1436.jpg

It's coming off the car next week and is for sale (reason is getting bigger turbo, and dont want issues with the waste gate hitting the split pipe, it's perfect for standard turbo though)

Yes a full ciricular divider that goes into the turbos rear impeller to make sure that there is no conflicting of exhaust gases, its the other option besides the half moon, but is used only for your stock turbo as the half moon can be used for stock and hi flow hence the half moon shape :D , used to make these pipes and supply batmobl, if you guys really want something custom made we can do it for you just shoot me a pm...

Edited by FOOLBOOST

is there anyone in oz making quality bellmouth dumps these days? I notice batmbl's website is only selling the split dump and I'd prefer a simple bellmouth. Cheaper to make and just as good for what I need it for.

Could always buy an Xforce because it's hard to f**k up a bellmouth dump pipe but if an aussie made one is not much more I'd rather keep it local!

ok im a newby and dont know jack about exhausts. i have a stock s2 and wont be increasing boost much at all. what would be my best option for a better sound and a bit more power. leaving the stock dump pipe and then buying a hks or similar front pipe. pls explain from front to back what pieces are required and any brands etc recommended.

sorry guys but i need to start learning somewhere:)

About the gktech dumps, ive seen one and compared them to an original hks dump and the difference is very noticeable!!!!!

The workmanship and quality was enough to change my mind and go for the original.. as u see in the pics ive posted earlier.....

i dont know anyone who has tested one so i cant say if they work well but If you were sticking with a stock turbo setup it would probly be ok, they are a good price.....

i also was thinking of getting one untill i compared the 2.

The thickness of pipe wasnt what was said it should be and the welds werent smooth with the joins...

but i was lucky to get a hks for $270

is there anyone in oz making quality bellmouth dumps these days? I notice batmbl's website is only selling the split dump and I'd prefer a simple bellmouth. Cheaper to make and just as good for what I need it for.

Could always buy an Xforce because it's hard to f**k up a bellmouth dump pipe but if an aussie made one is not much more I'd rather keep it local!

I bought the Bellmouth dump/front from Flyn Performance.

http://www.flyn.com.au/home.htm

Fit perfectly first go without any modifications required.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...