Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u can't stuff it..actually you can, but its pretty hard..

as long as you have a proper boost guage you are safe (even if you borrow one and rig it in). I wouldn't recommend you muck with it without a guage though. If you install it all, take it for a spin, and the boost starts creeping too far back it off, and you'll be safe.

If you haven't got your S-AFC installed yet(?) and tuned - also be careful dialing it past about 9psi as you might start leaning out with the stock ECU (danger, danger) . If you have a 95 model you can prolly go a bit further in the boost stakes.

I fiddled around removing and putting on a couple of boost controllers (going back to stock, blah). Only time i had troubles was when i put back on my stock solenoid and got the tubing the wrong way.. When it kept spinning past 12 i knew something was wrong so i backed up to fix it all up again :P Without a guage to see this it would'a just kept spinning till nice little bits of ceramics were rattling in my exhaust.

errrrrr thats kinda scary nowww. gee's gord..with the bits and peices rattling in your zorst. thanks for your detailed info dude.. :P

always detail info you give!

If you haven't got your S-AFC installed yet(?) and tuned - also be careful dialing it past about 9psi as you might start leaning out with the stock ECU (danger, danger) . If you have a 95 model you can prolly go a bit further in the boost stakes.

sooo what should i do? get the boost controller install same time as the tuning of the safc? surely workshops will have a spare gauge i can borrow .

Where abouts in the Sth Eastrn Suburbs?....I know of one near chaddie shopping centre......

yepp. very close to chaddy. PM me with the details. cheers dude.

if you're not confident yourself, just get the place that installs the S-AFC to also install the boost controller and tune it all up as one - will work out cheaper that way. A workshop will also use their own pressure guage to check everything so you shouldn't need an aftermarket guage then (but they are a good idea)

You're close to chaddy too ..hmm, i am 5 mins away.. if you want me to quickly show you what u need to do, let me know.

pushhead if you need someone to install it and do some calibration drop me a pm or email me have all the equipment and boost guage if needed can also hook you up with a simple one nice and cheap

cheers

[email protected]

oh btw the install would be done in knox

aawwww thanks all for offering assistance. This shows Victoria has a great community to fellow skyline owners. The bond and friendship is great. Glad to be a victorian :)

Anyway enuff of mushy stuff, I found some installer down the road from my house.. will speak to him and see.. .

Thanks acsplit for offering to help with installation. Knox is quite close to me :D

Hey Nath dude, if you live abit closer to me (takes me like 2hours to get to your house lol damn west freeway's are confusing) i get u to look at it. Thanks for offering too bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...