Jump to content
SAU Community

Speaker Mounting

08yannch

By 08yannch,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted

i under stand that subs go in to enclosures and it is best to follow what the manufacture says when selecting or billing a enclosure

it is just what about 6x9's and 6" speakers what about them is it better to put them in a enclosure and if so should it be vented or sealed

i ask because i when to a super-cheap auto to get some lock-tight and i over heard a salesmen saying to somebody that it is best to put all speakers in enclosures

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244339-speaker-mounting/
Share on other sites
Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

All speakers will perform better when in enclosures. Like speaker towers for surround sound systems. Just becomes a bit impractical mounting boxes in car doors so its usually just left without one. A few people have actually made them for the 6x9's in the rear as there is a bit more space.

Medium Dave Proficient

Medium Dave

Posted
Posted

Putting your speaker inside an enclosure can yield great results - I have played around with this before and you can hear the difference between boxes - I tried blindfold tests with a friend, he didn't believe me they were the same type of driver. At the very least, sound deadening is a must, if you can - box them. I prefer a sealed box for a bit tighter response, but if you want big bass, then vented is the way to go. It all depends on how far you are prepared to go to get the best sound out of your speakers - even a great speaker can sound rubbish if mounted poorly.

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

Not really

Most 6" and 6x9" car speakers are designed to run infinite baffle.

That means that a box of the correct size would be too big to use in a car.

It is however very important that the speaker is mounted so the front of the speaker is sealed from the back of the speaker so the soundwaves don't cancel out.

Use plenty of sound deadener eg. Dynamat on your doorskins and parcel shelf.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...