Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR
Originally posted by Brody

I just picked up 5 of mobile1 at autobarn for $55? so ill see how I go tomorrow when i change....

Quick question, mobile1 being 5w-50, isn't that going to be 2 thick when warmed up? Thicker = slower revs?

it should be fine...alot of people use it on the forums from what i know..there is also i diff type of mobile 1...0-40w rating hard to get for only workshops from what i have heard. Would be nice to get some..

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hhmmmm...then would something like castol -R be better as its rated at 5w-30?

I just took out all the black shit that was in there, topped it up with fresh mobile1, took it for a quick spin, didn't really noticed a difference....other times ive had it flushed i have :P

When u do an oil change, do u have to change the filter everytime?

I use a mechanical oil pressure gauge, if all is set up ok there is no rear problem, but unsure of legalities.

Brody, why put $50 of oil in and not spend the extra $8 on a filter just to be sure. Otherwise you still have all the old oil and dirt in the filter with the new stuff flowing through it.

mobil dont cope really well in temp department.

Thats contrary to an article i have (had?) that rated the Mobil1 as having the best high temp stability of all the oils tested (approx 8 oils from memory)

I have used Mobil 1 on this basis and with my engine having done 155,000kms, 3,000 of which have been at prolonged full throttle on circuits... it seems to have peformed well at high temps.

This is a good read, as im looking for a different oil after 6 years of using Mobil1, its getting too expensive.

Your thoughts on using say a 10-50w etc for an engine with higher kms say 155,000kms?

I found little difference between the 2 on the street. Shell was probably better because of it's pricing even temps was only a tad higher, but of no concern.

But on the circuit I like the Mobil 1. Shell, the temp rose to rapidly and went well above 130 degrees. Mobil sat at 115 degrees.

Originally posted by Clint32

Brody, why put $50 of oil in and not spend the extra $8 on a filter just to be sure.  Otherwise you still have all the old oil and dirt in the filter with the new stuff flowing through it.

Because i forgot until i had started :D

its the first time ive done it myself...

You can get mechanical oil pressure gauges but they can't be mounted in the cabin. Hence people putting them on the bonnet.

Electrical oil pressure gauges which use a sender are fine for cabin mounting, but are more exxy and may (as someone said) have a reduced range. However as long as it covers the expected operating point of your oil around the middle of the gauge it'll be fine. I really don't think oil temperature should vary by 140 degrees!! (if base temp is 40C then 180C is your top temp.. fairly hot oil!)

Jay i fitted i remote oil filter and cooler so the filter mount had a spare fitting that i used, otherwise im pretty sure you are able to buy a plate that goes where the filter is and the filter screws to that. Remote filter is not hard to set up either and makes changing the oil very simple.

ahh

well i got a 93 gtst

and i just put helix ultra 5-40 in

and im having the pressure problems aswell

if it doesnt sit above a qtr i get very cautious

but yeah it sbeen in for 2 weeks now

and sits VERY low at times

around 5-6 at startup till its warm

maybe because it runs so hot it flows free'r?

who knows

ill dump it after 2 thou

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...