Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by R33man

I was recently quoted $4000 for supply and fit (including dyno tune) of a Power FC computer and boost controller.  Is this a good price or should i look elsewhere.  :)

:bahaha: can u say RIP OFF??

U can buy one new for $1400 with hand controller, to install takes about 10 mins if u know how to use a screw driver and socket set. Proper tune depending on mods you got about 2 hrs.

All up i think u are paying around $2300 more than u should.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-523164
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Ronin 09

look out guys, customs are getting smart. The last 2 packages from greenline i've received have been taxed, and they've somehow got the exact cost of the items as per greenline's site...

How much tax did u pay on the parts??

Customs must be reading the forums to now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524328
Share on other sites

Originally posted by hungry6

mine is costing me a fair bit more to tunecause i'm looking for the every last horses in the motor , including the one hiding behing the trees.

One word : DETONATION.

If you try and extract evey last pony, as soon as the air temp changes, or you get a slightly off batch of fuel etc, your check engine light starts flashing away at you, ignore it and do a rebuild.

Its a real pain (talking from experience). If you go for a more conservative tune, it is more likely to give you a longer, hassell free life.

0.02

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524718
Share on other sites

Steve...of course detonation and exhaust temp would be taken into consideration. In fact a lot time is usually spent tuning at the track (if the pockets are deep) where temp is hot and car is being pushed hard...would have thought you had done that with your car too.

P.S....why would you ignore the engine light flashing at you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525269
Share on other sites

4 Doorz, the post just set off alarm bells, so injecting a word of caution. Every last pony insights visions of max hp on a dyno - to me anyways. I had someone do a 'get every pony possible' tune, and it wasnt long before I took it somewhere else and got a retune.

I completely agree with you, WRT a good tune. My car doesnt get track tuned, but it does get a good workout on the street. And yes it does cost extra, but well worth it IMHO.

Check engine light - some people dont keep an eye on their check engine light, and usually pay the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...