Rb26 Rebuild Advice

[omega36]

Ello guys.

I've decided to do a engine rebuild on my car after something in the motor broke.

This is my first go, and I only have a fairly basic understanding of the engine/engine rebuild process.

From what I can gather, I will replace the following items in the engine:

(Mahle) forged pistons & conrods

(ARP) conrod-bolts and head-bolts

Main bearings

(N1) Oil pump & water pump

Timing belts

(Tomei) head gasket

That's all that I can think of at the moment. What important parts from that list are missing? I am sure there's some stuff I am not aware of..

And what else do you guys recommend I should do while the engine is out? I don't have unlimited funds, and of course, there is still labour costs involved which aren't yet calculated (ouch). I'm also thinking of maybe getting some adjustable cam gears and maybe some N1 turbos? Are the N1's a direct bolt-on for a early model R32 GTR ?

Finally.. on the note of labour costs, can one guess a ballpark figure? I know other work may need to be done, and different places charge different amounts, but if anyone has a very very rough figure to be looking at for labour I'd appreciate it if you could let me know.

Thanks alot (again) !

[J'z-R33]

Hey mate,

Buy a VRS kit, has all new gaskets and valve stem seals. There about $250 from memory. Since you have an R32 you should install a crank collar aswell.

While the motors out its a good time to put in a sump baffle and external oil drain from the back of the head to the sump. Also get them to machine the oil gallery's and return. This will aid the oil flow back to the sump. It will cost you a bit extra but its worth the effort and longevity of your motor.

Theres heaps of post about rebuilds do a quick search on here theres hours of reading lol. Also indicated rough pricing and who people recommend.

Cheers

J

[Angus Smart]

Possibly 3k in labour + parts on building your motor. depending on what you get done etc. if your going to use mahles you will be looking at Around 2-5k in parts. also depending on what you do with rods and depending on how bad your motor is broken

n1 turbos will be a direct replacment.

you will either need a nissan full engine gasket kit (or another brand?) i tend to use nissan stuff as i have had problems with other cars and aftermarket gasket kits in the past.

conrod bearings too..

but a must is

oil restrictor to head, and oil return from head to sump (a trader on here makes up the fitting you need)

p.s. there is probably moar to mention but i am out of time for now..

Edited November 14, 2008 by Angus Smart

[omega36]

Thanks guys, your input is greatly appreciated.

At least I now have a fair idea of what I want to do so I can communicate this with my mechanic properly

Will keep a log of the rebuild and start a write-up when I have some material.

[omega36]

Annnd she's gone to the mechanic

Will only have a chance to hear what's up with the engine when it comes it in the next 7 business days or so. Quite stressful.

[doo doo]

if you've got the engine out and apart a couple of things i did myself if you're up for it is to re-shim the head- cost me about 200 bucks- if you're going to do this send me a pm and i'll give you the details of a guy in melbourne who makes shims, better than nissan, .02mm graduations with a .2 case hardening (so you can safely rub them down to exactly the size you want). About 8.50 each. Next day delivery. Now ring nissan and see what that'll involve. If you get the valve seats and valve faces done you'll need to do this anyway.

You can also port match the exhaust manifolds to the head and to the turbos- improves spool up by about up to 500 rpm- you'll see why when you take them apart. Cams and cam gears are a good idea- again cam gears can generate better spool response. I think this is needed when you up grade turbos to keep the streetability. I'm also running some custom turbos that have the response of 2530's and lose only 4 hp on 2540's. They're 1300 brand new, again pm me if something like this would interest you and I'll send you details.

Def oil supply needs attention- collar on the crank for oil pump drive, (usually around 300 for this), restrictor in the block for oil feed to the head, some sort of baffle for sump.

I put in Wiseco's as the rings are ok with the nissan bores.

I just paid me machinist to do hot tank block, bore, torque hone, reface valve seats, reface valves, replace exhaust valve guides, , rebore stock rod large ends (as you need to with arp rod bolts), measure for bearings and do ring gaps, balance, assemble. Usually block cleaning, decking of block and head truing cut- this cost me 1800.

Full nissan gasket kit is a good idea, i also used a tomeii standard thickness head gasket and sandwich metal exhaust manifold gaskets (another gasket kit) If you're changing timing belt you might like to replace tensioner and idler pulleys too. (including the stud for the tensioner)

If you're going for stockish turbos you might want to stick to the standard rods and simply have the big ends machined with the arp rod bolts. Don't get a tunnel bore.

Have your crank checked for straight and whether you've worn through the nitriding.

Let us know how it goes too. Best of luck!

Edited November 15, 2008 by doo doo

[gtr jet]

I've recently bought my 1st gtr n have just destroyed the bottom end as well and am going through the same rebuild process. Sorry to hijack the thread but was wondering if any 1 has had any trouble getting the gear off the end of the crank. I cant get the thing to budge and its stopping me from getting the oil pump n crank out. Also i only paid $75 for my crank collar.

[Angus Smart]

You mean the crank pulley/balancer?

you have the engine out of the car?? or engine still in the car??

Is the bottom end locked up and wont spin?? or does the crank still rotate??

I recently had a second hand motor delivered, put it on the engine stand to pull the motor down. I couldnt pull the crank balancer off at all. (had a 2m tubing over the end on a 1/4 drive socket bar, and it bent my sidchrome set ...) i ended up borrowing a 1/2 inch drive set and it came off with the 2m tube

I had to lock the rear of the motor via the flywheel bolts to the engine stand to stop the motor spinning. tho i bent about 4 high tinsile bolts before it came off..

[doo doo]

Crank mod I'm talking about is a welding mod, not a collar, I don't recommend the collar personally. You need to lock the flywheel and get big extension tube over 1/2 inch socket drive for the crank pulley bolt. Mine did come off with my rattle gun, SO much easier. If it's the pulley you can't budge you need a pulley or bearing puller, if it's the timing belt cogged wheel it should pull off, take the flat plate belt guide off- slip the slot over the keyway bit. If this doesn't come off easily you could have a rather bent crank. Check your collar drive on the crank for the oil pump to see if it's worn more on the front half once the crank's out.

[gtr jet]

yer its that cog that sits rite infront of the oil pump, u cant get a puller on it cos half of it is coverd by a metal plate n if u dont get that off the end of the crank u cant get the oil pump off n u cant get the crank out.

[doo doo]

I take it you've got the front timing belt guide plate off? (sits between crank pulley and cogged belt pulley)