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bleed valve without boost guage

ImPrOvIsE

By ImPrOvIsE,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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ImPrOvIsE Collaborator

ImPrOvIsE

Posted
Posted

I am looking at getting a bleed valve but dont want to fork out for the boost guage. In my eyes it would be best to get an EBC if u r going to spend the money on guage and valve (would be nice but $$$)

Anyway, I was wondering in ur experiences what is one of the more trustworthy brands of valves that rarely spike since I wont have a guage. Will be getting the car dyno'd once installed as I will also have a SAFCII by then. Hopefully all spike issues can be resolved on the dyno then.

What are peoples opinions on the various bleed valves and of having a bleed valve without a boost guage? Have heard the DNA valves are pretty good. ANyone vefify this.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24518-bleed-valve-without-boost-guage/
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ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

Dude,

You've had a few other probs with your car recently, low compression and stuff... why take another risk?

Rule of thumb, NEVER boost a car without a gauge, even if you get it done on a dyno! Dyno's cannot simulate the load the car will encounter on the road and as boost is load dependant, good luck.

Get a cheap-ass $60 gauge from supercheap or repco before you start playing around!

ImPrOvIsE Collaborator

ImPrOvIsE

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by Strich9ine

Dude,

You've had a few other probs with your car recently, low compression and stuff... why take another risk?

Rule of thumb, NEVER boost a car without a gauge, even if you get it done on a dyno! Dyno's cannot simulate the load the car will encounter on the road and as boost is load dependant, good luck.

Get a cheap-ass $60 gauge from supercheap or repco before you start playing around!

I think my mate who did the compression test did it wrong even

though he is a mechanic. After the compression test I took it to Steve at SST, had it dynoed and got 230rwhp with just 3" exhaust for mods. He said there was no blowby and to get a reading of 230hp it was highly unlikely to have low compression. Said nothing was wrong with motor. That certainly made me feel heaps better after thinking my motor was phucked.

Might have to get a cheap boost guage to start of with then. Anyone else had any experiences with cheap boost guages?

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

I have a cheap boost gauge. I can't justify paying $300+ for a damn gauge.

Even if you choose an EBC later on, a boost gauge is still a pretty critical thing to have.

and NEVER rely on the stock gauge, it doesn't have the granularity that an aftermarket (read: PSI, or BAR readout) can give!

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

if speedo's and fuel guages and temperature gauges are accurate then what's to say the stock boost gauge ihas to be screwed like eveeryone keeps saying??

why will a $30 gauge from supercheap which screems cheap and inferior quality to me work better than a gauge which ws made by nissan?

does not make sense to me...

i can't see why upping the boost by 2 or so psi can't be observed on the stock gauge. please prove me wrong...

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ImPrOvIsE

I think my mate who did the compression test did it wrong even  

though he is a mechanic. After the compression test I took it to Steve at SST, had it dynoed and got 230rwhp with just 3" exhaust for mods. He said there was no blowby and to get a reading of 230hp it was highly unlikely to have low compression. Said nothing was wrong with motor. That certainly made me feel heaps better after thinking my motor was phucked.

Might have to get a cheap boost guage to start of with then. Anyone else had any experiences with cheap boost guages?

230hp with a 3" turbo back exhaust? Thats pretty damn good, are you sure its got a stock ecu? Would be interesting to see the AFR's. To get 245hp @ wheels I was running an ebc set at 12psi, turbo back exhaust and a fmic.

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

if speedo's and fuel guages and temperature gauges are accurate then what's to say the stock boost gauge ihas to be screwed like eveeryone keeps saying??  

why will a $30 gauge from supercheap which screems cheap and inferior quality to me work better than a gauge which ws made by nissan?

does not make sense to me...

i can't see why upping the boost by 2 or so psi can't be observed on the stock gauge. please prove me wrong...

Its screwed because its in a bad spot and hard to read, the measurements on it dont seem to be linear or accurate and it reads in mmHG I think (from memory) instead of bar or PSI. The majority of boost gauges are just simply a vacumm gauge, so they dont have to be expensive to be good.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rob77

Its screwed because its in a bad spot and hard to read, the measurements on it dont seem to be linear or accurate and it reads in mmHG I think (from memory) instead of bar or PSI. The majority of boost gauges are just simply a vacumm gauge, so they dont have to be expensive to be good.

you're advising people to go any buy a shitty boost gauge because the stock one is hard to read and in a bad spot???

i have done chemistry among other sciences and i know that 760mmHg = 1.0 bar = 14.3 psi

so, 7 on the gauge is about 13.2psi and half-way on the gauge would be 6.56psi

its not hard to see the gauge and if you use yuor maths correctly it can't be that hard to wind the boost up 2 or so psi and just keep an eye on the gauge.

i feel that everyone has jumped on the banwagon of 'stock boostgauge is shit' and run with it...

advice to ppl out there: don't believe everything you read (including my utter ramblinge here). go and make your own decisions...

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

you're advising people to go any buy a shitty boost gauge because the stock one is hard to read and in a bad spot???

i have done chemistry among other sciences and i know that 760mmHg = 1.0 bar = 14.3 psi

so, 7 on the gauge is about 13.2psi and half-way on the gauge would be 6.56psi

its not hard to see the gauge and if you use yuor maths correctly it can't be that hard to wind the boost up 2 or so psi and just keep an eye on the gauge.

i feel that everyone has jumped on the banwagon of 'stock boostgauge is shit' and run with it...  

advice to ppl out there: don't believe everything you read (including my utter ramblinge here). go and make your own decisions...

I dont believe everything I read on here. I just find the stock boost gauge pointless for the non stock turbo I'm running, as it doesnt read over 13.2psi. But as its goes from -7 to 0 to +7 with no other figures inbetween only marks I find it annoying and hard to read and I dont tend to look at the tacho constantly when I'm dring hard, I tend to look at the road and my other boost gauge which is mounted on a pillar gauge at around eye level to the road. *shrug* do whatever you feel suits you? Would you jump off a cliff if I told you to? :/ This forum is full of "opinions" and my opinion is the stock boost gauge is shit.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

rob i totally agree with you then.

if your turbo boosts over 13 psi then the stock one is completely useless

i'm referring to the r32 really with my opinion where the gauge is above the tacho not where it is in the r33, and is withing easy glance whilst accelrating...

and opinions is what makes these forums good. one person only has limited thoughts but collectively we possess great ideas and tips and tricks based initially on ones opinions. keep them flowing i say...!

ImPrOvIsE Collaborator

ImPrOvIsE

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by rob77

230hp with a 3" turbo back exhaust? Thats pretty damn good, are you sure its got a stock ecu? Would be interesting to see the AFR's. To get 245hp @ wheels I was running an ebc set at 12psi, turbo back exhaust and a fmic.

AFR are apparently running to rich. I am getting my SAFC II soon and hoping to get around 20rwhp and then bleed valve hoping for 10-15rwhp @ 11psi. Do you think these are reasonable expectaions. Both mods 30-35rwhp?

Pretty sure its a stck ECU. Had a look once and it had "Nissan" written on it.

Andrew

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