Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys n Chicks, Most Of you no my car, R33 s1, Anywhos, Whats the dealyoyo withthe hicas light coming on all the time? Only comes on when im doing between 80kms to 110kms - usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

Kels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245284-why-is-my-hicas-light-turning-on/
Share on other sites

Mine did it a couple of times, apparently its nothing to be worried about. Happened to my dad a few times driving up and down the freeway on the way to work. However, I've been to your place a number of times now and my light hasnt come on in months.

hi im new here is your wheel-alignment straight? cuz ma cars wheel alignment was out b4 with da steering wheel off-centre n ma hicas light came on(happened on da freeway as well) n when i put it on da nissan consult tester it says no neutral signal at watever degrees n after i had ma wheel-alignment done it never came on

Edited by R33_NICK

hey sniper ( think you live round the corner from me ) . hicas light comes on to indicate that the hicas system has a fault and has been deactivated . on the r32 model i believe this could only happen after a certain distance of driving and above a certain speed . once the system is deactivated it stays as such until the motor is switched off .

so you have a fault . just rip it out , hicas is gay anyway

kermit 0422549050

Hey guys n Chicks, Most Of you no my car, R33 s1, Anywhos, Whats the dealyoyo withthe hicas light coming on all the time? Only comes on when im doing between 80kms to 110kms - usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

Kels

faulty steering wheel position sensor , steering wheel not centered correctly or no speed sensor input if you have an aftermarket steering wheel without a hicas compatible boss kit

it happens on the fwy because you have not moved your steering wheel in a while and there has been no steering input for the pre-determined amount of time to trigger the hicas error

very common search for more info if you need it

usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

just avoid the freeway or great northern highway and you'll be fine.

but in all seriousness this issue is regular and has been covered before. the forums are full of great information. it's there if you look for it :)

Chances are its the aftermarket steering wheel problem, exact same thing happens to my 32 i just ignore it.

Failing that 100 dollars for a lock bar and you can sort the problem out.

+1 for the aftermarket steering wheel causing the issues.

if you use the search feature you might find there's another thread on the forums on hicas issues.

Mmmm locker bar * thinks * hahaha that could be fun??? Yeah my wheel alignment was done like a month ago, its all straight, BUTTTTTT my steering wheel isnt, well after the alignment that is... Ino that i get a bit of humming in the rear end, but i presumed it was just my diff getting old... And yeah the light switches off when i turn the car off... Ino some times when i slow down like betweenn 20 - 40kms my steering gets really stiff and like impossible to turn, then go's away.... and i thawt that was hicas having a sad.... Thanks for your help guys, i now half understand hicas, i was starting to get a bit concernd haha!

Kermit - Lol No i dont live around the corner from you, i was at my mates :blink: I waved hahaha!!!

hmm power steering fluid.... that might explain the stiffness when you slow down if the hicas light is on, right? Going to Tenagah this friday, I'll get them to have a sqizz and tell me the issue cos Kelly you described the EXACT same problems I'm having!!

i read that thread Benson!! And I got confused as hell! I read the 'to hicas or not to hicas' thread and i was liek whaaaa

I've been best advised to just leave it in and stop crying about it lol

When r you going to Tenagah for the HICAS, Bens?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...