Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i always have this debates with friends and uthers...im snoopin around for a car at the moment and i have divided opinions on the r33 skyline and the rb20det powered sil....definately there's many pros and cons...but i want to see wat u guys think...

n e comments on the issue is much appreciated...

thanks

:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24531-r33-vs-silvia-wrb20det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I drive an s13 with an SR20DET.. at least until I get enough money together for my GTR.

I have very basic mods.. 3" straight through (turbo to tip) and modified r33 gtst's have a tough time keeping up.. even on the M1 all the way to the 180km/hr speed limiter.

the 2 litre silvia K's packs a lot of punch for the $$. and with some tasteful styling like some good looking 17's and removing the rear wing, they are a very good looking car.

i was in my mates rb20 180sx the other day... he was drunk so i was driving... with 4 people we beat a modded r33 (big fmic, etc) ... i launched like shit and had 3 car lengths by 70km/h :)

they are quick and get good traction for 125rwkw (what my mates got on the dyno) .. i know the guy with the r33 and i think it has around 150rwkw maybe a bit more.

But my RB20 vl with 132rwkw still used to beat my mates 180sx with 125rwkw ... must be the weight over the tyres and soft suspension (not soft anymore)... also i ride the clutch i dont fry the tires.

Evan

Well people, funny how people that have say s13 with rb engine say i beat r33's. Mine isnt very modified. R33 gtst bit more boost exhaust, standard dump pipe and a k&n pod and its not too bad for what it is. Rolling start i havent really raced many cars and it may only be the 33's in your area that arent modified much but rolling start my 33 goes quite well. Had a 2nd gear roll on with a friend who has a s13 with rb20 with a front mount, pod and more boost and we were even in 2nd but didnt get to race into 3rd or 4th. I mean thats only one RBS13 and one R33 but im sure there are quick ones of both types of cars out there and it really comes down to personal preference.

That does simply not make sense to me.. why two cars with the same engine.. the heavier car has more top end power?

I get that a lot about my Sr20det powered silvia..

"Oh six cylinder skyline will beat you over 100km/hr"

I have raced SEVERAL r33 gtst's all the way up to 180km/hr, neither of us could pull away. And if anyone was slightly gaining it was my car. Sorry croat but this is first hand experience.

It's a myth that originated with the 6 and 8 cyl commodore people imo. :/

RB20 calais, are you sure the R33 was having a go too?

with 4 in your car that would make the 180 weight at around 1400. with 125rw this doent sound like a skyline chopping sx.

sr20 powered S13s are quick but however they would be very close to R33s in performancewise, with the same driver of course.

ron

pentae, the two cars do not have the same engine. r33's have rb25s, not rb20's.

I'm a little confused here... can somebody explain why you would swap out a perfectly good engine and replace it with an rb20 to gain what is it 10 kw? I understand if your engine blows or something, but couldn't the money that it would cost to do the swap be better spent? Or am i missing something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...