Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i need to clean out my shed so these have to go. they are all priced to go

r32 headlights - $30 each. LHS is H3C and RHS is H1. don't ask me why.

r32 indicators - $10

r32 stock catback exhaust - $25

r32 stock front pipe - $10

r32 split dump pipe with o2 sensor - $50

r32 passenger door (black) - $50

r32 side mount cooler with piping - $25

r33 front seats - $50 each

r33 rear seat (top and bottom) - $50

r33 letterbox grill - $20

these came from a 4 door r33. i know the front seats will fit into a 2 door r32/r33 no problems as i had them in my car for a little while

contact me via pm

small things i'm happy to post at your expense otherwise the big things such as the exhaust and seats are pick up only in Sydney.

pics can be organised on request

will update with more parts when i find them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245313-stockish-r32-and-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

r32 indicators - Are these the front corner ones or the ones that sit in the side of the front guard? Pics?

Cheers

they are the corner ones.

stupid no edit button for 1st post - the indicators are $10 each. i forgot to mention that.

sorry guys

pic below:

indicators

Clear corner one's? lol just making sure im right these are the ones almost attatched to the headlights

Pics please

have received heaps of pm's about the indicators

pics are 2 posts above. just click on the link

they aren't clear clear. they are the stock clear ones with the orange bits that stick out. and yes, the ones almost attached to the headlights. LOL

similar to the ones in your signature i think.

pm's replied.

headlights and indicators sold pending payment. sorry guys.

ALSO ADDED:

i have a hks fcd for sale - $50

i just bought this from phatlavish and turns out i don't need it.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

update:

r32 headlights - $30 each. LHS is H3C and RHS is H1. don't ask me why.

r32 indicators - $10

r32 stock catback exhaust - $25

r32 stock front pipe - $10

r32 split dump pipe with o2 sensor - $50

r32 passenger door (black) - $50

r32 side mount cooler with piping - $25

r33 front seats - $50 each

r33 rear seat (top and bottom) - $50

r33 letterbox grill - $20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...