Jump to content
SAU Community

Heaps N Heaps Of Parts Nismo 2 Way, Safety21 Full Cage, Tein Coilovers, Hks 2535, Recaro Pair, Whiteline Sway Bars, Arc, Apexi, Greddy, Momo Ect Ect


Recommended Posts

can u post pics of the seats, intrested in the pair.

there ya go mate

img75481024x768xa7.jpg

i have taken both seats out, just need 2 take pics of the tear.

sounds like your thermostat is old and stuck open

sounds like i went from a CA18 radiator to a 52mm one!

ps im not the only one that thinks it takes much longer for the car to warm up with these radiators

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

roll cage is sold mate

my number is on the first page but here u go again mate 0406 974 904

cheers

240kws @ 17psi with emange + stock dump stock front and stock cat.

with a power fc + full 3" turbo back should make 250-260kws and be alot more responsive

dynoula220708.jpg

Would you happen to have the passenger side door sills? I would be interested in those if you are willing to ship them to the US.

Rear strut bar sold

FMIC + piping not for sale anymore

oil catch can sold

Side skirts sold

Intake pipe sold

Water pump sold

7 point cage sold

3"dump/front sold

hey man the front bar is the bar u were selling in a seperate thread before this one right? the black one? if so its got damage on it? if not what colour and condition is it in?

Rear strut bar sold

FMIC + piping not for sale anymore

oil catch can sold

Side skirts sold

Intake pipe sold

Water pump sold

7 point cage sold

3"dump/front sold

Recaros sold

Rear strut bar sold

FMIC + piping not for sale anymore

oil catch can sold

Side skirts sold

Intake pipe sold

Water pump sold

7 point cage sold

3"dump/front sold

Recaros sold

turbo sold pending payment

central 20 ecu sold

  • 2 weeks later...

Rear strut bar sold

FMIC + piping not for sale anymore

oil catch can sold

Side skirts sold

Intake pipe sold

Water pump sold

7 point cage sold

3"dump/front sold

Recaros sold

turbo sold

central 20 ecu sold

not at the moment, for some reason my car wont start without it, so till i get my wiring sorted ima hang on to it

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...