Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive changed my plugs, checked the coil packs, even checked the resistance of the coil packs with a multimeter. every thing seems to be normal. the miss is still there. only under a fair bit of load though, so it looks like im going to have to buy a s-afc

i think robo is right! it must be dumping to much fuel......

LastTemptation

i know what u mean dude, funny thing is i am a mechanic. (a heavy vehicle mechanic though) so i only know diesl!!!!

and electrical isnt one of my stong points.

i did check all the obvious things first, but its good to get other ppls opinions and maybe learn from others ppls experiences.

looks like i will have the problem sorted out when i get my hands on an apexi safc.

thanks for your help guys.

  • 2 months later...
walkoau, guess wat i have same problem wit mis fire... at 6000rpm..

wat did u do to fix it.. ur safc work good for it or wat?

i got quoted for a coil change at $400 just checking wit u before paying.

yeah the safc helped the problem but its still there cause i havent had the chance to get it tuned yet.

you should do a check on the coils yourself before paying to get new ones.

the best way to check shorting is in the dark.

Park up your car at night, start it, and have a look for the little blue sparks jumping onto things.

Get someone to rev the engine if you have to.

I did this on my Ford Fairmont (which I am selling, and buying a R33 R34 4 door skyline) and I could see the little blue sparks jumping from the leads to the engine head anything metal etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...